Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The previous owner told me that he had a shop replace the old turbos with these. https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/garrett-rb26dett-gruppe-n-turbo-upgrade.html

Anyone know anything about them?  Looks like they are just GT2860R's? Not sure why they are renamed Grup-N... 

Does the compressor wheel look like they are in okay condition?

 

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Group N is a type of limited modification production rally, I agree they ware probably just -5s or similar. You really need the details from the tag on the core to tell, the housings don't tell you much because they can be machined to suit many cores.

For checking the compressor, all you need is to see no physical damage. The amount of movement in the shaft (side to side and forward/backward) is what matters 

On 6/9/2024 at 1:19 AM, r32-25t said:

The 5 is bigger then the 7 

I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. 

4 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. 

From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...

The -9 is absolutely regarded as the best choice lol. It's a 'better -7' with -5 and -10 being too big.

There's probably better twins nowadays, but just throw a single on and that sums up about 30,000 posts on this topic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...