Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all, 

I have just bought my 1992 R32 GTS and have found that the headlight lowbeams are permanently on and cannot seem to fix it.
I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Wondering if anyone has any advice before I start tracing all the wires back looking for the problem.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485734-r32-gts-headlights-staying-on/
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, slow32de said:

Wondering if anyone has any advice before I start tracing all the wires back looking for the problem.

That's not going to happen, given...

35 minutes ago, slow32de said:

I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Because that shot should be categorically impossible. Stock circuit goes direct from dash switch/dimmer to globes.

Someone might have added relays and f**ked that up, so that the relays stay on regardless of the control side being on/off/unplugged.

There's a big 3 pin connector (H4 style) behind each headlight that carries the Lo, Hi and earth wires, that plugs into a subloom that breaks out to connect to the separate Lo and Hi globes in the headlight. If there are relays added, they should be there, because it is the easiest place to intercept the stock wiring and interpose something else.

 

Question: on a stock 32 when the lights are turned on at the dash switch do they turn themselves off when the ignition is off

Assumption: possibly someone wired them so the lights come on/off with the ignition as a simple hack because they always drove with the headlights on....maybe

With most modern cars the lights go out when the ignition is switched off and a door is opened, or after some time, some older cars do this, some don't

I personally always drive with my headlights on, day or night, that is a possible hack that I have considered for my MX5 which beeps at me every time I get out the car because I forgot to turn off the headlights, unlike my VX SS where the lights come on and off with the ignition 

What I recommend:
"H4 relay harness" for your Headlights, the R32 switch is passed though the headlight circuit, so it's common to see burn out switches because people have used "100W H3" or H3C bulbs, they are all shit.

ALL BLUE TINTED BULBS ARE SHIT

no matter what instagram ad you saw, every single HID/LED/whatever bulb is shit.

Trust me, been there done that, every halogen bulb is shit.

 

Your only real upgrade path is to retrofit proper HID projectors and ballast (or equivalent Koito LED projectors).

trust me when i say i've been there done that, no replacement for displacement.

 

And that's saying with me driving a BMW F45 with factory LED bi-LED, and my R32 having aftermaket bi-Xenon (morimoto d4s)

 

you cannot argue with physics

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

Before you go too far with this, just make sure it is indeed the headlights on, and not the foglights (switch on the dash surround). Also, are the taillights always on?

Tails are always on aswell even when the car is fully off, I’ve been having to disconnect the battery.

By the looks of it the bloke must’ve messed around with all the light wiring so I’m just going to go through and redo it all. 

On 8/15/2024 at 2:01 AM, niZmO_Man said:

What I recommend:
"H4 relay harness" for your Headlights, the R32 switch is passed though the headlight circuit, so it's common to see burn out switches because people have used "100W H3" or H3C bulbs, they are all shit.

ALL BLUE TINTED BULBS ARE SHIT

no matter what instagram ad you saw, every single HID/LED/whatever bulb is shit.

Trust me, been there done that, every halogen bulb is shit.

 

Your only real upgrade path is to retrofit proper HID projectors and ballast (or equivalent Koito LED projectors).

trust me when i say i've been there done that, no replacement for displacement.

 

And that's saying with me driving a BMW F45 with factory LED bi-LED, and my R32 having aftermaket bi-Xenon (morimoto d4s)

 

you cannot argue with physics

I’ll have to have a look at them then, looks like old mate messed around with the wiring and rooted it. 

7 hours ago, Duncan said:

Before you go too far with this, just make sure it is indeed the headlights on, and not the foglights (switch on the dash surround). Also, are the taillights always on?

That switch turns the tail lights on.

On 13/08/2024 at 1:29 PM, slow32de said:

Hello all, 

I have just bought my 1992 R32 GTS and have found that the headlight lowbeams are permanently on and cannot seem to fix it.
I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Wondering if anyone has any advice before I start tracing all the wires back looking for the problem.

Thanks

This happened to me, Its an easy fix.

The control switch you use to turn on the lights have metal 'tags' inside that switch between the options on your knob. those tags wear out and can easily short.

I bit the bullet and bought another light switch. unfortunately i had to buy the whole surround to get that switch hahaha

6 hours ago, R32RB20 said:

The control switch you use to turn on the lights have metal 'tags' inside that switch between the options on your knob. those tags wear out and can easily short.

Yeah nah, because:

On 8/13/2024 at 12:59 PM, slow32de said:

I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Something is well f**ked up on this one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...