Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all, 

I have just bought my 1992 R32 GTS and have found that the headlight lowbeams are permanently on and cannot seem to fix it.
I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Wondering if anyone has any advice before I start tracing all the wires back looking for the problem.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485734-r32-gts-headlights-staying-on/
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, slow32de said:

Wondering if anyone has any advice before I start tracing all the wires back looking for the problem.

That's not going to happen, given...

35 minutes ago, slow32de said:

I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Because that shot should be categorically impossible. Stock circuit goes direct from dash switch/dimmer to globes.

Someone might have added relays and f**ked that up, so that the relays stay on regardless of the control side being on/off/unplugged.

There's a big 3 pin connector (H4 style) behind each headlight that carries the Lo, Hi and earth wires, that plugs into a subloom that breaks out to connect to the separate Lo and Hi globes in the headlight. If there are relays added, they should be there, because it is the easiest place to intercept the stock wiring and interpose something else.

 

Question: on a stock 32 when the lights are turned on at the dash switch do they turn themselves off when the ignition is off

Assumption: possibly someone wired them so the lights come on/off with the ignition as a simple hack because they always drove with the headlights on....maybe

With most modern cars the lights go out when the ignition is switched off and a door is opened, or after some time, some older cars do this, some don't

I personally always drive with my headlights on, day or night, that is a possible hack that I have considered for my MX5 which beeps at me every time I get out the car because I forgot to turn off the headlights, unlike my VX SS where the lights come on and off with the ignition 

What I recommend:
"H4 relay harness" for your Headlights, the R32 switch is passed though the headlight circuit, so it's common to see burn out switches because people have used "100W H3" or H3C bulbs, they are all shit.

ALL BLUE TINTED BULBS ARE SHIT

no matter what instagram ad you saw, every single HID/LED/whatever bulb is shit.

Trust me, been there done that, every halogen bulb is shit.

 

Your only real upgrade path is to retrofit proper HID projectors and ballast (or equivalent Koito LED projectors).

trust me when i say i've been there done that, no replacement for displacement.

 

And that's saying with me driving a BMW F45 with factory LED bi-LED, and my R32 having aftermaket bi-Xenon (morimoto d4s)

 

you cannot argue with physics

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

Before you go too far with this, just make sure it is indeed the headlights on, and not the foglights (switch on the dash surround). Also, are the taillights always on?

Tails are always on aswell even when the car is fully off, I’ve been having to disconnect the battery.

By the looks of it the bloke must’ve messed around with all the light wiring so I’m just going to go through and redo it all. 

On 8/15/2024 at 2:01 AM, niZmO_Man said:

What I recommend:
"H4 relay harness" for your Headlights, the R32 switch is passed though the headlight circuit, so it's common to see burn out switches because people have used "100W H3" or H3C bulbs, they are all shit.

ALL BLUE TINTED BULBS ARE SHIT

no matter what instagram ad you saw, every single HID/LED/whatever bulb is shit.

Trust me, been there done that, every halogen bulb is shit.

 

Your only real upgrade path is to retrofit proper HID projectors and ballast (or equivalent Koito LED projectors).

trust me when i say i've been there done that, no replacement for displacement.

 

And that's saying with me driving a BMW F45 with factory LED bi-LED, and my R32 having aftermaket bi-Xenon (morimoto d4s)

 

you cannot argue with physics

I’ll have to have a look at them then, looks like old mate messed around with the wiring and rooted it. 

7 hours ago, Duncan said:

Before you go too far with this, just make sure it is indeed the headlights on, and not the foglights (switch on the dash surround). Also, are the taillights always on?

That switch turns the tail lights on.

On 13/08/2024 at 1:29 PM, slow32de said:

Hello all, 

I have just bought my 1992 R32 GTS and have found that the headlight lowbeams are permanently on and cannot seem to fix it.
I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Wondering if anyone has any advice before I start tracing all the wires back looking for the problem.

Thanks

This happened to me, Its an easy fix.

The control switch you use to turn on the lights have metal 'tags' inside that switch between the options on your knob. those tags wear out and can easily short.

I bit the bullet and bought another light switch. unfortunately i had to buy the whole surround to get that switch hahaha

6 hours ago, R32RB20 said:

The control switch you use to turn on the lights have metal 'tags' inside that switch between the options on your knob. those tags wear out and can easily short.

Yeah nah, because:

On 8/13/2024 at 12:59 PM, slow32de said:

I unplugged the switch and they stayed on, unplugged the relay and still stayed on.

Something is well f**ked up on this one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...