Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New reg arrived, no use hooking it up rail is coming out with injectors.

Sort out this bumper over next few days, finish restoration on headlights. 
post results of both shortly 

IMG_7806.jpeg

IMG_7808.jpeg

  • Like 1

Yeah mate, I’m not 100% how much damage this water has done to the crank and internals. At the moment my mate is sending me whole inlet man with injectors rail to bolt on. 
in the future it’s gonna get a decent amount of boost prob around 400-500hp so this motor is just gonna get it on the road and registered. 
see how it goes. Stage two turbo is still a long way off.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

What do these look like?

https://www.autolinkparts.com.au/fuel-injector-o-ring-repair-kit-suit-nissan-skylin~46615

Fits many of the circa 1980s Bosch injectors. The gauze screen eventually gets (partially) restricted with fuel deposits, new base seal & Oring (they go hard), and the spray hole in the plastic pintle cap erodes after decades in service.

 

For the numbers I want from my rb30 I’m going a different ecu and it will be getting new injectors at some stage after it’s in the road.
But for that price, they will 100% be getting a service while they are out. Thanks mate

It's a fun job...did a little write-up here --> https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=159279.105

FTR, smoothed the idle out and the rb30 was more responsive...manifold vacuum at idle came up a bit (likely the base Orings leaking), and spark-plug colours evened out. An interesting little test, is to grab an eye-dropper/pipette and put a couple of drops of petrol in the old gauze filter, same again with new ones...see how long it takes to drip through 😃

Thing is the results are inconclusive because I replaced the injector connectors and fitted the intake runner spacer at the same time...but when you see & test the old gauze filters, there's little doubt this would've pushed fueling a little bit towards the thin side...

...btw... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2891341l00

....washer bottle cap, still available last time I checked.

  • Thanks 1

Front bar finished, headlights back together rebuilt next.
Fuel tank,bits and pieces on Monday. Cold side replaced by next weekend then we may have the first fire up. 
 

IMG_7852.jpeg

IMG_7840.jpeg

IMG_7837.jpeg

IMG_7834.jpeg

On 18/09/2024 at 8:03 PM, 25RBGT said:

headlights back together

sorry to be pedantic about this, but I'd love to see more details about this.

Background: I'm a retrofitter, and when I get off my lazy arse, I have a projector pair and a brick pair to retrofit (with either HID or LED projectors).

Before and after of reflectors, two coats brushed on.

i used a bucket full of hot water to to heat up glue, then pry the lenses out a little with a flathead screwdriver and cutting with a Stanley.

I’m not sure how the paint will go but it’s my best chance without dipping. 

see the reflection in the picture I’m pointing? That’s two coats paint and you can see the state of it in before shot after I cleaned it 

 


 

 

IMG_7922.jpeg

IMG_7923.jpeg

IMG_7924.jpeg

IMG_7925.jpeg

IMG_7926.jpeg

  • Like 1

Obviously he got here on Monday, we managed not to hurt ourselves ....fuel tank looks far more useful now (instead of sitting in an unused car like it has been), but there's so much more to do...

@25RBGT Forgot to say, if you need anything else off that car, just let me know...

  • Thanks 1

Thanks mate yeah ready to move onto the next step now. Get this motor running then I will want the box to drive it around my yard instead of pushing the thing haha

Time to get the ass end off the stands and the wheels back on. Finally tank complete 

  • 2 weeks later...

Today myself and a mate tracked a fuel pump issue down to this amazing piece of workmanship in the fuel cradle loom. Covered by conduit and electrical tape.

so now we should be moving onto the first fire once this is corrected. 🤞🤔

IMG_8114.jpeg

IMG_8116.jpeg

IMG_8115.jpeg

Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this...

..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway....

...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this...

....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)...

...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...

In no way was i suggesting it’s your fault mate.
The trailer cable has a plug that I removed. I will have a closer look, but I did remove the trailer wiring cable with the tow ball as I don’t need it on my silo.

i have replaced the fuel pump already there’s no need to remove the cradle again I can see the wire colours from it in.

Oh for sure, I'm just recounting my thoughts 😎

I'm not what you've got there to fuzt with.... likely my first idea was on the money -- rebuild or replace connectors.

You can get a lot of connector stuff here  -> https://www.rapidcables.com.au/

Didn't look in the boot of mine, because I replaced these when I renewed the pump (plastic of connectors had gone brittle)

edit: what I used... https://www.efihardware.com/products/2120/Deutsch-DTM-Connector-Kit-6-Pin

...cheaper... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364900039138

Edited by dbm7

Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used.

next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...