Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People,

has anyone come up with a way of getting non-driven wheel speed on a R32 Gts/gtst? from what i've seen the RWD R32 didn't look to come with ABS, if they did i can't find a rwd ABS front knuckle anywhere.

is it a case of putting a S14/R33 front knuckle on and then modifying the ASB ring to suit a ECU input frequency limit? or have people managed to get a hall sensor onto the back of the hub and pick up the wheel studs?

 

i've searched but there isn't anything that I could find.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485837-r32-gtsgtst-non-driven-wheel-speed/
Share on other sites

there are probably many ways to do it

for my bosch motorsport abs we used a r33 gtst abs front knuckle and modified the rear knuckle to allow sensor to sit and read

understand time, effort and $$ but reading from anywhere else  you get diff chatter etc where you lose 30% ish in signal clarity compared to the above

  • Like 1

Sweet thanks mate, I did wonder if its easier to try and find a R33 knuckle and make that fit, is it just a case of changing the lower ball joint?

I'm getting drive wheel speed off the gearbox speed sensor which is fine so far to 230kph

19 hours ago, Looney_Head said:

Sweet thanks mate, I did wonder if its easier to try and find a R33 knuckle and make that fit, is it just a case of changing the lower ball joint?

I'm getting drive wheel speed off the gearbox speed sensor which is fine so far to 230kph

correct Ive moved to a r33 oem ball joint - they are actually thicker than alot of the after market and similar 

  • Like 2
16 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

Get r32 abs uprights? That's what I have on my car. I've got some new tone rings if you want them. I just run a gt101 in the abs hole, pretty simple. 

I can get you some pictures on the weekend if you like

Yeah agree but probem is you cant find any!  Not many made in the first place and now like hens teeth

  • Like 1

Another complicated thing is to run Z32 alloy hubs which have wheel speed sensors for ABS. You need different tie rod end, and you need new bearings on the upright etc. I did that as part of a major refresh when my front kingpin bearing flogged out., Alloy was a little lighter, runs a bigger bearing , gives a few extra mm in wheelbase as it moves the wheel forward in the arch (cant run crazy but can still get 8ish comfortably).

 

All in all glad I did it but was a head fark as tried it once and abandoned it the first time. sav man swung his spanners at it and got it working so using his guidance on GTR/Z32 tie rod ends etc and the required mismatch of parts was able to make it work.  Probably a 2k upgrade all said and done :(

 

I think the best bet is just look around your front wheel and see what you can pick up rotationally. You see old Escorts, E30s etc all get very creative with front uprights and the humble old angled alloy bracket.

  • Like 1

thanks Roy, i did look into z32 front knuckles but saw it was a ballache so didn't bother. my local nissan parts dealer says he has a R32 ABS gts front knuckle, so i'm going to investigate that and see what it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...