Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.

 

what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff

 

on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?

Edited by drifter17a
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485948-r34-diff-oil/
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff

No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears.

And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff.

Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears.

75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils.

If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above.

If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485948-r34-diff-oil/#findComment-7995189
Share on other sites

I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself

 

in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?

 

i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485948-r34-diff-oil/#findComment-7995191
Share on other sites

99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well.

I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs.

Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485948-r34-diff-oil/#findComment-7995192
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, drifter17a said:

I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself

 

in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?

 

i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones

75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485948-r34-diff-oil/#findComment-7995194
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, drifter17a said:

believe mine is helical and not clutch type.

Unlikely, as per Greg's post.

2 hours ago, drifter17a said:

During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff

This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground.

2 hours ago, drifter17a said:

I want to learn shiming process and do it myself

Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion.

In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid.

2 hours ago, drifter17a said:

bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years

Nike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485948-r34-diff-oil/#findComment-7995199
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground.

Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it.

Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical.

Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485948-r34-diff-oil/#findComment-7995201
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...