Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long time no see, I haven't posted since 14 years ago...

To cut to the chase, R32 GTR. dead stock. Split wastegate hose = stock turbos were overboosting = front turbo's exhaust wheel has shattered.

Have done a compression test following this and the results are (dry, cold) - 120 / 60 / 75 / 110 / 150 / 150. Haven't bothered with a wet test or leakdown test. The results definitely support front turbo failure (on 1-3) however the low compression on #4 is concerning too.

Can anyone share their experience of when their turbine wheel shattered and damaged their motor - and what work needed to be done afterwards? Pistons? Rings? Valves? Throwing in the bin or salvageable? Motor is 100% stock. Will be getting it looked at further soon - I don't have a borescope and head hasn't come off (yet).

It will be salvageable.

It really doesn't matter what is damaged. Opening up a 30+ year old motor for a rebuild immediately means a complete rebuild of the head anyway. Damaged valves just means an opportunity to put in some nice new ones.

And in the modern day, why would you not throw at least a nice set of pistons at something. And if you're doing that, why not rods, and ARP fasteners, and so on.

It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons.

I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!

The overboost could be more of a cause. Broken turbines usually ends up in the cat, time to engine rebuild. Blown stock turbos can be high flowed with bigger and modern wheels for greater power goals.    

Edited by hypergear
37 minutes ago, hypergear said:

The overboost could be more of a cause. Broken turbines usually ends up in the cat, time to engine rebuild. Blown stock turbos can be high flowed with bigger and modern wheels for greater power goals. 

Hi Tao,

It seems that turbine fragments entering the engine is more of a thing with the twins. The theory is that because there is much more of a straight shot from the turbine housing directly at exhaust ports, they seem to cop it where the single turbo cars don't do it so often. It is definitely something that we hear about on GTRs far far more often than the others.

8 hours ago, Duncan said:

It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons.

I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!

Yeah car has 110 on the clock. That said the front turbo (that exploded) doesn't seem to be the original, it has a S1 part number but the car is a series 3.

4 hours ago, hypergear said:

The overboost could be more of a cause. Broken turbines usually ends up in the cat, time to engine rebuild. Blown stock turbos can be high flowed with bigger and modern wheels for greater power goals.    

Yep, in the cat is where I first found the turbine wheel pieces - a couple decent sized ones, then a whole lot of fragments. 

9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

It really doesn't matter what is damaged. Opening up a 30+ year old motor for a rebuild immediately means a complete rebuild of the head anyway. Damaged valves just means an opportunity to put in some nice new ones.

I agree, probably makes sense to upgrade parts that are being replaced. Things like rods would be 'nice' but realistically it seems unlikely they would need replacing.

I was hoping that it was a case that they generally f**k up the valves but not the bore, or vice versa. Is it generally the scour damage rather than ceramic bits getting mashed into the piston tops / valves? I tried a search but couldn't find any threads with pics from the guts of a motor that's had this happen. 

On 26/01/2025 at 8:01 AM, Erelyes said:

Long time no see, I haven't posted since 14 years ago...

Will be getting it looked at further soon - I don't have a borescope and head hasn't come off (yet).

Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time!

Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.

 

Cheers Lith! You're right, it's entirely possible that there's other reasons for the low compression. It's off to the shop soon, skipping borescoping etc and just getting it out and apart, we'll see what it looks like then.

55 minutes ago, Erelyes said:

Cheers Lith! You're right, it's entirely possible that there's other reasons for the low compression. It's off to the shop soon, skipping borescoping etc and just getting it out and apart, we'll see what it looks like then.

Good luck!

On 1/26/2025 at 10:31 AM, Duncan said:

It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons.

I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!

Is that just in the context of a gtr and not a gtt because twin turbo vs single turbo? 

30 minutes ago, silviaz said:

Is that just in the context of a gtr and not a gtt because twin turbo vs single turbo? 

GTt too.

But GTt being R34 they're a lot newer.

From memory the R34 also runs a nylon rear wheel instead of ceramic.

I might be wrong on it being nylon, but I'm certain they moved away from ceramic when they went from R33 to R34

  • Like 1
12 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

GTt too.

But GTt being R34 they're a lot newer.

From memory the R34 also runs a nylon rear wheel instead of ceramic.

I might be wrong on it being nylon, but I'm certain they moved away from ceramic when they went from R33 to R34

There's absolutely no way the turbine is nylon when EGTs peak somewhere in the region of 800-900C. The compressor can be nylon.

16 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

GTt too.

But GTt being R34 they're a lot newer.

From memory the R34 also runs a nylon rear wheel instead of ceramic.

I might be wrong on it being nylon, but I'm certain they moved away from ceramic when they went from R33 to R34

The S2 R33 and R34 both run a nylon composite compressor on a ceramic turbine. R34 has a larger a/r turbine housing 

  • Thanks 1
4 hours ago, MBS206 said:

GTt too.

But GTt being R34 they're a lot newer.

From memory the R34 also runs a nylon rear wheel instead of ceramic.

I might be wrong on it being nylon, but I'm certain they moved away from ceramic when they went from R33 to R34

From what I understand, it's a ceramic turbine and a plastic compressor (not sure how it doesn't melt then lol) I heard the series 2 r34 gtt has a metal turbine but I doubt that.

@GTSBoy When you blew your standard neo turbo it didn't cause damage from memory just the turbine ended up in the cat?

Edited by silviaz
27 minutes ago, silviaz said:

From what I understand, it's a ceramic turbine and a plastic compressor (not sure how it doesn't melt then lol) I heard the series 2 r34 gtt has a metal turbine but I doubt that.

@GTSBoy When you blew your standard neo turbo it didn't cause damage from memory just the turbine ended up in the cat?

Yuh. It is very rare for a single turbo to throw ceramic into the engine. Quite common on GTRs. As I posted above.

Mine did destroy the O2 sensor on the way out though!

Plastic compressor is fine with the temperature. It's not some flimsy PE/PET/PP thermoplastic. It's a thermoset resin with reinforcing material in it (a composite, as posted by @Lithium above). The compressor never sees much more than 100°C because it's never boosting very high. If you boost it high enough to make a lot of temperature, then the turbine will depart the scene and stop the party anyway.

  • Like 1
10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yuh. It is very rare for a single turbo to throw ceramic into the engine. Quite common on GTRs. As I posted above.

Mine did destroy the O2 sensor on the way out though!

Plastic compressor is fine with the temperature. It's not some flimsy PE/PET/PP thermoplastic. It's a thermoset resin with reinforcing material in it (a composite, as posted by @Lithium above). The compressor never sees much more than 100°C because it's never boosting very high. If you boost it high enough to make a lot of temperature, then the turbine will depart the scene and stop the party anyway.

Ah right. I got a new o2 sensor because the last owner disabled it (probably because it was dead and didn't want to buy a new one), here goes potentially for a new o2 sensor again lol.

Edited by silviaz
  • 2 months later...

Been so long since I have been here,seeing SDU is dead.

I had that problem on my gtr in 2006 but luckily there was no engine damage,it was inspected by Hytech Engines,race bearings and extended crank collar put in and that was about it.

Hopefully yours is sorted now.

  • 1 month later...
On 17/04/2025 at 10:08 PM, zique said:

Hopefully yours is sorted now.

Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't.

It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now.

Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...