R32 GTR - Where to begin

[Toni]

Hi All,

I have a 32 GTR, with coilovers, hicas lock bar, exhaust and pod filters.

Just after suggestions on where to begin with engine/power output mods without breaking the bank.

Thanks in advance. 

[Murray_Calavera]

Budget?

[Toni]

Just now, Murray_Calavera said:

Budget?

Somewhere between 5-10k.

[Murray_Calavera]

Where are you located, is that budget AUD? 

[Toni]

1 minute ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Where are you located, is that budget AUD? 

Victoria, yes AUD

Edited March 3 by Toni

[Murray_Calavera]

Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 

[GTSBoy]

Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile.

Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable.

• If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them.
• If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links.
• Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people.
• Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid.
• Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays.
• Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides.
• Nice tyres.
• Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road.
• Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh.

Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power.

Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it.

A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k.

None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.

[Toni]

12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile.

Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable.

• If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them.
• If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links.
• Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people.
• Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid.
• Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays.
• Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides.
• Nice tyres.
• Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road.
• Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh.

Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power.

Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it.

A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k.

None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.

Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers.

I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look.

Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean.

Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly.

Preference to remain twins too.

@Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.

[Toni]

Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership.

The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.

[r32-25t]

Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 

[Toni]

5 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 

Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate.

Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡

[joshuaho96]

If you haven't replaced the OEM turbos, replace them sooner than later. I have seen recent pictures of what OEM ceramic turbo failure can do in an RB26 and it will make a 10k AUD budget look like a joke. Single vs twins have been done to death on this forum. If your turbos haven't fallen apart you can probably send yours off to Hypergear for rebuild. The journal bearing option will have more turbo lag but it's a good bit cheaper. I would probably go for ball bearing CHRA but keep in mind ball bearing turbos are more particular about oil pressure/flow.

Edited March 3 by joshuaho96

[Toni]

2 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

If you haven't replaced the OEM turbos, replace them sooner than later. I have seen recent pictures of what OEM ceramic turbo failure can do in an RB26 and it will make a 10k AUD budget look like a joke. Single vs twins have been done to death on this forum. If your turbos haven't fallen apart you can probably send yours off to Hypergear for rebuild.

I haven't touched the turbos so might need to look at that 👍 Appreciated 🙏

[Murray_Calavera]

2 hours ago, Toni said:

Paying for labour.

Yeah ok, it'll be expensive. But it is what it is. 

How do you plan to use the car? Any track work? 

[Toni]

Just now, Murray_Calavera said:

Yeah ok, it'll be expensive. But it is what it is. 

How do you plan to use the car? Any track work? 

Strictly street. Just wanting a bit more power 🫡

Have baby seat in the back too 🤣

[The Bogan]

$5-10k isn't much for reliability if your looking at more power for a RB

Me, with that much money currently on hand,  I would only look at things to suit future mods, as stated, a fuel pump and ecu would be my first point of call, as well as getting the injectors cleaned and tested, maybe even replace all the coolant hoses

After a little time with the tuner, they should be able to tell you how your car is running in relation to things like your ignition, cooling, and other stuff that will be picked up when it has had a few runs up on the dyno and some logs to look at

Basically, get everything sorted for reliability before you start leaning on a 30 year old engine

Good luck with the one and only true Godzilla, enjoy

Note: for your birthday presents, ask your family and friends for lottery tickets, a 32 GTR can cost "all of the money" to make reliable power

[Toni]

8 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

$5-10k isn't much for reliability if your looking at more power for a RB

Me, with that much money currently on hand,  I would only look at things to suit future mods, as stated, a fuel pump and ecu would be my first point of call, as well as getting the injectors cleaned and tested, maybe even replace all the coolant hoses

After a little time with the tuner, they should be able to tell you how your car is running in relation to things like your ignition, cooling, and other stuff that will be picked up when it has had a few runs up on the dyno and some logs to look at

Basically, get everything sorted for reliability before you start leaning on a 30 year old engine

Good luck with the one and only true Godzilla, enjoy

Note: for your birthday presents, ask your family and friends for lottery tickets, a 32 GTR can cost "all of the money" to make reliable power

Thank you 🙏

I'm patient, which is good, considering the limited budget (for now) more so trying to understand where to begin the journey and you and the others have been good with that, appreciate everyone for their input 🫡

[Duncan]

Just chuck in an ECU, Injectors and a pair of direct fit low mount turbos, that should use to the top of your budget and give it a nice kick along.

Also, don't do anything unless you don't need the car daily....if it does blow and you get another 10k bill just to get back to where it is now would you be able to come up with the cash or will it sit for 2 years like most GTRs....

[Toni]

10 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Just chuck in an ECU, Injectors and a pair of direct fit low mount turbos, that should use to the top of your budget and give it a nice kick along.

Also, don't do anything unless you don't need the car daily....if it does blow and you get another 10k bill just to get back to where it is now would you be able to come up with the cash or will it sit for 2 years like most GTRs....

Cheers Duncan, on club reg and very much a weekender, don't drive it all that hard and don't intend to go overboard at any point in the future too.

In my 40's and quite mature driver, just want that little bit more from it 😉

Sounds like, after ensuring everything is in good condition, ECU, Injectors, Fuel Pump and a set of turbos is likely to be my path forward. 

[Murray_Calavera]

After my million questions, I'll throw in my 2c now. 

If I was in your shoes, I would buy the best/most modern ECU available. A Nexus S3 would fit the bill. It is highly likely that this ECU will last the life of the car, regardless of whatever ECU manufacturers develop in the future. Modern ECU's are amazing and will still be amazing in 10 or 20 years time.

If you can get e85 relatively close to where you live, I would buy a flex sensor and size the injectors to run e85.

I'd go a Walbro 525 fuel pump with relay wiring kit. 

Turbo wise, I'd hit up HyperGear and get a pair of the biggest bolt on turbos. 

Now for the safety side of things, I'd have the tuner setup the tune to be very soft/safe on 98. Then on the flex tune, a lot of the timing can be put back in on the top end (I'd run full boost on both tunes, but manipulate the power with the timing). This also has the benefit of hopefully delaying the, "bored now, need more boost" that comes with owning a modified turbo car. If you spend most of your time on the 98 tune, the few times your on e85 will hopefully stay special/fun. 

The bad news. As your paying for labour and tuning, I don't think this will happen with $10,000. This might be the motivation to learn to do it yourself though, that way instead you'll have the built car and change from the $10,000