Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

[codygrimm27]

So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver.

The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution.

Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL

The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff.

With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this?

I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff.

I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone.

Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car?

Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated!

Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting

 

300zx Diff - No mounting tabs

Also found this mounting kit ??

https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34

 

[RBW49N]

Id just remove the solid subframe bushes. 
you are over complicating things. 
on a side note make sure you do some research on the skyline shed before buying from them. 

[Duncan]

So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you.

As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles.  You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front.

Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)

[GTSBoy]

9 hours ago, codygrimm27 said:

I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone.

Pay diff/trans workshop to do this.

 

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you.

Nope. Z32 turbo ran R230 with 6 bolt GTR style axles. All other Z32 were R200. Basically same same as other R32 stuff. All were a viscous waste of space.

[AnimalGarage]

Hi Cody,

If you are looking for a simple "bolt in bolt out" solution, I may be able to help via trade. I'm swapping my auto RS4V from stock subframe to a reinforced S14 Rear subframe specifically for track duty. I was looking into different rear core options while the car was in air and I found your thread.  

On 19/4/2025 at 5:16 PM, Duncan said:

The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left)

My VLSD rear is freshly changed fluid/inspected. I will say even with Redline diff fluid it is still not as aggressive as I would like with the "sports" viscous core, and coming from a heavily modded evo with full drivetrain I'm looking for a bit more rotation with the throttle. 

On 19/4/2025 at 5:14 PM, RBW49N said:

Id just remove the solid subframe bushes. 

I second this, the polyurethane bushings are pretty aggressive as is. 

If you're interested in the trade, I am driving out to Chicago in September for a time attack event. I could swing by and make the trade somewhere Sept 12-13th or 15-16th if you are interested and you have not already solved this issue yourself. 

[codygrimm27]

2 hours ago, AnimalGarage said:

Hi Cody,

If you are looking for a simple "bolt in bolt out" solution, I may be able to help via trade. I'm swapping my auto RS4V from stock subframe to a reinforced S14 Rear subframe specifically for track duty. I was looking into different rear core options while the car was in air and I found your thread.  

My VLSD rear is freshly changed fluid/inspected. I will say even with Redline diff fluid it is still not as aggressive as I would like with the "sports" viscous core, and coming from a heavily modded evo with full drivetrain I'm looking for a bit more rotation with the throttle. 

I second this, the polyurethane bushings are pretty aggressive as is. 

If you're interested in the trade, I am driving out to Chicago in September for a time attack event. I could swing by and make the trade somewhere Sept 12-13th or 15-16th if you are interested and you have not already solved this issue yourself. 

Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083

Thanks!

[AnimalGarage]

On 21/8/2025 at 6:05 PM, codygrimm27 said:

Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083

Thanks!

According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong  

Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car.