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5 minutes ago, sunsetR33 said:

If I were to (honestly) sell this car, with the current issues it has I'd lose a ton of money. Might as well invest into the car instead.

Sunken cost fallacy.

The real question is, would you rather a car on the road now, that's perfect, or do you like the idea of building a car into something that's yours?

If the latter, put money into it.

If the earlier, sell it, and buy another, and be very particular.

However, be aware, they're an old car, they'll all require significant maintenance at some point.

6 minutes ago, sunsetR33 said:

Both of these are questionable as to when I'd get one as well. Currently I think buying an engine locally, of which there are some available with various mods and prices, would be cheaper. Can also sell my engine as a partout then afterwards.

Buying local could also land you in the same scenario you're in now. Someone else just offloading their crap.

Edited by MBS206
On 16/05/2025 at 11:39 AM, MBS206 said:

Sunken cost fallacy.

The real question is, would you rather a car on the road now, that's perfect, or do you like the idea of building a car into something that's yours?

If the latter, put money into it.

If the earlier, sell it, and buy another, and be very particular.

However, be aware, they're an old car, they'll all require significant maintenance at some point.

On 16/05/2025 at 11:41 AM, MBS206 said:

Buying local could also land you in the same scenario you're in now. Someone else just offloading their crap.

If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive.
In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise.
I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.

 

On 16/05/2025 at 11:53 AM, r32-25t said:

You’ve already cracked a factory block, why would another factory block be any different 

On 16/05/2025 at 11:55 AM, r32-25t said:

Like the people who blow 5 stock boxes at 3k a hit when they could have bought a fully built box for 12k in the first place 

I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there.
Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much.
For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now.
But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.

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  • Latest Posts

    • No no, sorry I think I made you misunderstand. I have this Tee as well as the lines that go from there. What I am missing is the banjo bolt that connects this line (OEM turbo oil supply line) To this hole, this line is mounted on the turbo and reaches around it so you have easy access the oil and water supply being rerouted to this dual banjo port in the front. like this
    • Nothing at the moment as previously there was a crappy braided line going from engine block directly to the turbo. I have bought a used OEM hardline for the turbo oil supply, which goes from the engine block to the marked hole. I don't have any of the OEM banjo bolts for oil except the one at the block.
    • This is the tee No specs on the page I grabbed it from, out of stock there anyway. But it kinda looks like a 1mm pitch. Would not think it's going to be 0.75mm pitch.
    • OK, I'm with you now. The outlet of the tee that is banjo'd into the block. Dunno what it is, will have a scratch around. The M11 question is.....messy. The minor diameter of an M11x1.0 male thread is 9.917mm. This is smaller than the minor diameter of a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 10.08mm). The M11 major is 11mm. That's smaller than the major on a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 0.4375" or 11.1mm) so an M11x1 bolt should pass on the major side. The pitch of a -24 thread is 1.058mm, which is really close to the M11x1, so it should go in at least several turns. I would expect M11x1 to be loose in a 7/16"-24 UNS, at least until enough thread are engaged to make it stop screwing in, if that can happen. Probably wouldn't happen on such a short bolt as you're looking at on the oil tee. Keep in mind that 7/16"-24 is NOT a standard/typical 7/16" thread. Standard is 20. That's the UNF or fine thread. -24 is really fine. I imagine that Garrett chose -24 for the turbo housing oil inlet to get the number of threads engaged up. I would not expect Nissan to have an imperial (UNF, etc) thread on that tee. I would expect it to be metric (if it is a bolt thread) or BSP (actually the Japanese equivalent of BSP) if it is a pipe thread. Given that it's a banjo, it's going to be a bolt thread. If it looks like an 11mm will go in there, then 11mm seems likely. It is very possible that some clown has stuffed that thread by trying to jam some imperial "near equivalent" into it, perhaps with those hoses of yours. Got verniers? Measure up the threads on the hoses.
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