Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it safe to take the redline up to 7500rpm or so? With stock internals, and a PowerFC. I've got an adjustable exhaust cam gear so that should help with any breathing problems, but I'm also worried about affecting the longevity of the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49107-increasing-redline-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 156
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Long term = completes a track session

Standard internals = un-opened motor

:D

:cheers: always the realist ;)

I took mine to 7500rpm no drams for over 12 months.

Motor died - but that wasnt due to revs, just a few too many psi snuck in one night and caused it to ping.

So 7500 all the way.

Although, i found with stock cams, the car didnt have any go after about 7300 at that was still pushing it.

Also due to many other factors aswell im sure, like ECU and all sorts of other things

There is no point at all to increasing the redline, You will lose so much power after 6500RPM that its not even worth it. It may seem like its still pulling but on the dyno it shows that the HP drops like hell.

Although, i found with stock cams, the car didnt have any go after about 7300 at that was still pushing it.  

Also due to many other factors aswell im sure, like ECU and all sorts of other things

I'm only considering it because I've got an exhaust cam wheel, and will be running 15 psi after the tune. I used to run 15psi with the factory ECU, but the PowerFC at the same boost maxes out my injectors and AFM. So I'm running at 11psi until I get it tuned.

Anyway I'll see what the mechanic has to say when I take the car in. At least now I know I have some room to experiment.

I've run my Skyline up to 7500 for over 9 months now, I have had no drama's with this setting, however yes in Dyno runs I have found that there is no real power increase around the 6500 mark. I am running a Haltech E6K I think with a Stock engine and turbo along with ARE intercooler. I pulled about 187kw out of the rear wells and about 1350nm of Torque which I thought was quite high but this has been verified by two different dyno stations.. Also running the stock turbo at 14psi with a 3" Dump running into a Apexi 3.75 cat back exhaust.. (yes it scraps everywhere). I did a recent check and found compression to be around 135-150 over all 6 cylinders.. I have been told this is about right for a skyline, I dunno? shrug :P I think that a GT2540 would be great to upgrade to with new 700+cc injectors with fuel rail and pump to be upgraded as well. What ya think? do you think a new Cam gears would be wise too?

Aridyne

The exhaust camwheel retarded 3 or 4 degrees is good for enhanced torque low and midrange. In all our dyno runs stock and modified power tended to drop off fairly sharply over 7000. In the early days we hit 8200 on a regular basis.....but not anymore. After 3 years of street/drag/track the engine still doesn't use any oil between 5K changes so I guess the revs didn't hurt it any. When you get it tuned and see your power curve then you can decide on your rev limit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha don't worry I'm sue you've got more fun ahead buying a 30 year old turbo car....but at least you are in the right place to ask
    • some days eh? The keyless entry and interior light on/off with the key will be controlled by the Body Control Module, but I'm not certain where that is or what it looks like (you might get lucky with a search to get a part#, which could be printed on it). I'd start at the A pillar/ Under dash/kick panel on the driver's side
    • It might be hit and miss, but Nissan Genuine Parts and Pitworks are not the same thing, although both are available from Nissan Dealers with Nissan Part Numbers. Nissan Genuine Parts are the OEM stuff, Pitworks are their attempt to get people back from generic parts makers
    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
×
×
  • Create New...