Jump to content
SAU Community

Rez's R32 GTS-t Type M... presentable version!


Recommended Posts

Ikeda: We have everything... dyno, A/F, knock sensor etc... no problems. I thought you could do F-Con V... anyway, an F-Con S is still better than standard so I'll choose that for the time being if you can tune it. I hope Troy can get time off!!! :)

Dino: Cooling hasn't been too bad actually (to my suprise). We had 35 degrees today, but the temp guage was hovering just under halfway... pretty good fans behind the radiator I think :(

  • Replies 322
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Whats the handling like with the tires stretched so much?

Didn't get a chance to drive it... the front rims were contacting the helper springs on the coilovers. I'd say sidewall flex won't be an issue though :)

Dino: Cooling hasn't been too bad actually (to my suprise). We had 35 degrees today, but the temp guage was hovering just under halfway... pretty good fans behind the radiator I think :D

35 degrees....uhmmm.....that sounds sooo good.

  • 2 weeks later...

Justin, the car looks like it's coming along great.

Alot of work but certainly paying off.

As Ikerii has said, I maybe here longer than expected.

However I'll be back this weekend for a week, I guess we could all hook up in about another month's time, that's when I hope to take a short break.

What's your mobile? Email it to me. We'll talk then.

Here are some pics with the body kit on:

b4e2e266.jpg

f879db3b.jpg

zzz1111011.jpg

The kit was supposed to be a Vertex copy one, but when I picked the car up it had a 'Wise Sports' front bumper on... meh, it looks ok I guess. The front suspension issue will get fixed on Thursday, so the full set of 19x9.5s will be on then. After that... a full respray, with newly painted wheels, aero mirrors, carbon bonnet, carbon boot lid... and if my younger brother ok's it... CARBON DOORS :P

6c062b1e.jpg

The enlarged front 'mouth' gives the whole R32 'face' a real 'Whaleshark-like'

Apologies for asking this question again...but you should start seliing those front lips. I have tried a few times to buy one...and it seems the only way to get one is to buy direct from Japan :angry:

  • 3 weeks later...

Ikeda: We have everything... dyno, A/F, knock sensor etc... no problems. I thought you could do F-Con V... anyway, an F-Con S is still better than standard so I'll choose that for the time being if you can tune it. I hope Troy can get time off!!! :P

Is there actually someone in perth who can tune the f-con. About to leave japan and head to perth with my gts4. Buying some goodies to throw at it when I arrive, was looking at the f-con but..... Any info appreciated. Can get a full e-manage kit for 40,000 yen so might opt for that if no one can do the f-con.

P.S. whats the "Ikeda" about. Im sitting at work in Ikeda-shi right now <_<

Ikeda: We have everything... dyno, A/F, knock sensor etc... no problems. I thought you could do F-Con V... anyway, an F-Con S is still better than standard so I'll choose that for the time being if you can tune it. I hope Troy can get time off!!! :P

Is there actually someone in perth who can tune the f-con. About to leave japan and head to perth with my gts4. Buying some goodies to throw at it when I arrive, was looking at the f-con but..... Any info appreciated. Can get a full e-manage kit for 40,000 yen so might opt for that if no one can do the f-con.

P.S. whats the "Ikeda" about. Im sitting at work in Ikeda-shi right now <_<

I doubt you're living in the Ikeda I'm talking about... :) he's my mate, and also the Japan section of my parts business "K's Garage".

As for tuning F-Cons in Perth, no one car afaik, so just go the emanage or PowerFC.

I doubt you're living in the Ikeda I'm talking about... :rofl: he's my mate, and also the Japan section of my parts business "K's Garage".

As for tuning F-Cons in Perth, no one car afaik, so just go the emanage or PowerFC.

Yeh, was going to say "i'm in Ikeda now" but thought you may have been talking about someone!

Thanks for the info

  • 2 weeks later...

Here are pics with the S13's suspension almost done. I say almost because it's still not sitting the way I want it... long story but I assure you it will be perfect at the end of next month.

suspension0001.jpg

It looks better than when I bought it at least... :(

suspension0003.jpg

IMO perfect offset... you've *got to* be able to read the tire size and brand from this angle... if you can't, then take it home to mamma :lol:

suspension0002.jpg

Prolly the best shot.

It will go into the paint shop on Monday, so these are the last pics of the S13 in it's white colorscheme. After that, theres probably a months worth of tidying up and detail work with alot of carbon fibre and other secret stuff...

now that you have the front rims on how does it handle?

As you can imagine theres no 'give' in the tires whatsoever, so the already stiff Tein HR's are now complimented by rock solid 19" boots... I wouldn't like to use this wheel/tire combo on anything but city streets. But my brother and I got these specifically for demo-car duties outside our shop, so they'll probably get changed for some proper 18" lightweight rims later on this year when we start to get into some track work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...