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Hey guys,

I have done a fair bit of searching on this topic, and want to hear the experiences of others.

I Have spent lots of money on my RB20 and it is going great, but i feel spending any more money on HP gains just isnt cost effective, and think i would be better off throwing in an RB26 with a 2wd sump and GTR box.

Who has done this, what additional costs did you encounter, and how did you go about making a 2wd sump.

As far as labour costs etc, i plan on doing most of this myself, maybe a few odd jobs will be sent off to the experts.

all info and advice would be awesome!

thanks.

Ben.

Hey guys,

I have done a fair bit of searching on this topic, and want to hear the experiences of others.

I Have spent lots of money on my RB20 and it is going great, but i feel spending any more money on HP gains just isnt cost effective, and think i would be better off throwing in an RB26 with a 2wd sump and GTR box.

Who has done this, what additional costs did you encounter, and how did you go about making a 2wd sump.

As far as labour costs etc, i plan on doing most of this myself, maybe a few odd jobs will be sent off to the experts.

all info and advice would be awesome!

thanks.

Ben.

HiBen, the wiring harness is different, RB26 has air temp sensor and 2 X AFM's. ECU is different of course. I assume you meant use an "R33 GTST" gearbox. If you did mean GTR gearbox then you will have floor pan problems, they are different. Engine mounts and front subframe as well.

I was going to do the RB26DETT upgrade with our R32 GTST, but I found the RB31DET to be cheaper and more effective. For example I could keep the R32 GTST wiring harness and RB20DET Power FC as well.

There is more than one way to skin this cat :D

SK,  

given the above, i assume u guys r running the RB20 head with the RB30 bottom end?

if so, doesn't the RB20 head have small ports & valves? i'm sure this would be quite a restriction.

Many years ago we did run a Commondoor with an RB30ET with an RB20 top end (cylinder head, manifold etc) . Huge improvement over the single cam, 2 valve RB30 head, made 80 bhp more, same turbo etc. So it's not THAT bad, super cheap too.

About 4 years ago we did the RB25DE top end on the RB30ET, that was a good thing. It made 475 BHP on the engine dyno with standard internals, all up cost $1,200.

Most of what we do now is RB26 top end on RB31 (forged) bottom ends. It's the best value for money big power upgrade.

It's all releveant to where you are starting from and what size your wallet is. :cheers:

Hey guys,

I have done a fair bit of searching on this topic, and want to hear the experiences of others.

I Have spent lots of money on my RB20 and it is going great, but i feel spending any more money on HP gains just isnt cost effective, and think i would be better off throwing in an RB26 with a 2wd sump and GTR box.

Who has done this, what additional costs did you encounter, and how did you go about making a 2wd sump.

As far as labour costs etc, i plan on doing most of this myself, maybe a few odd jobs will be sent off to the experts.

all info and advice would be awesome!

thanks.

Ben.

Cheater :)

:jk: You can still use the R32 loom etc. However it means you dont run the air temp and you have to put the single (bigger Z32 etc) AFM before the single inlet into the intercooler. The ECU should not know the difference. I have pi55ed in a friends pocket on numerous occassions about doing this, and it seems it would not be that big a job provided you aint in a hurry.

I supect im going to be happy with the power form the RB20 after going to Phillip Island running SFA boost, so have settled on sticking with the RB20.

But RB26 seems the logical choice...i was only saying to someone yesterday that i wish Nissan had stayed true to the RWD philispohy with a 1350kg RWD GTR with pumped aluminium guards and RB26. Would have still destroyed the Grp A competition :cheers:

And best of all you can use thet RB26 fuel rail :)

I think sydneykid has cover pretty much everything. At the end of the day, money makes all the decision. You should sit down and do your budget and the future plan for the car before making such decision. However for street application I would go with rb26 top end on rb30/31 bottom end with correctly matched turbo just because of the better low rev range response.

I think sydneykid has cover pretty much everything.  At the end of the day, money makes all the decision.  You should sit down and do your budget and the future plan for the car before making such decision.  However for street application I would go with rb26 top end on rb30/31 bottom end with correctly matched turbo just because of the better low rev range response.

That makes sense, but... on the street? Seriously on the street an asmatic RB20 can get you into trouble. How much low end power do you need in a road car. An RB31 with RB26 head with correctly matched turbo, im guessing at a minimum its going to have 260rwkws and grunt in the mid range.

If you are racing then i say build an RB30. If its a road car then i say save your money and enjoy driving it :cheers:

LOL...I dont know what the point of this post is :Oops: just think ppl sometimes place too much emphasis on getting such a power ful engine that you cant enjoy it on the street. My old SR20 Pulsar was great, you could row thru gears and revs without doing anyting too illegal. I hate to think the tommfullery id get up to in an RB31 :)

About the cheapest ultimate street setup i can think of is an RB25 with a 2530, it was wild :headspin:

The RB20 sump is a minor mod to fit on the RB26 to clear the oil pick up, the RB20 wiring is easy to add the few wires and connectors needed and the GTR ecu does plug in the same.

No RB20 heads do not fit Rb25-26-30 bottom ends, the studs are in the same place but not much else so this story is misleading as all the water passages need to be welded up and re drilled plus other mods and the tiny valves make it a waste of time.

:confused: Buy a big ass turbo, bigegr injectors and cams to make a peaky but fun 250rwkws at about 1.3 -1.4 bar

OR

Install a dead stock RB26 with std injectors, std turbos etc etc and make an easy 250rwkws ar 1-1.1 bar.

Hate to say it but the RB26 looks like a done deal. Chatting to a guy down here running an RB26 with std RB20 box, its lived for around 6 months and it sounds like he knows how to enjoy the cars performance. ;) The gearbox and front pipes/dump pipes add some cost though.

R32 GTST with RB26 would rock, good brakes, good susp, good power and reasonable weight at around 1350kg

:confused: Buy a big ass turbo, bigegr injectors and cams to make a peaky but fun 250rwkws at about 1.3 -1.4 bar  

OR

Install a dead stock RB26 with std injectors, std turbos etc etc and make an easy 250rwkws ar 1-1.1 bar.

Hate to say it but the RB26 looks like a done deal. Chatting to a guy down here running an RB26 with std RB20 box, its lived for around 6 months and it sounds like he knows how to enjoy the cars performance. ;)   The gearbox and front pipes/dump pipes add some cost though.

R32 GTST with RB26 would rock, good brakes, good susp, good power and reasonable weight at around 1350kg

:whackit:

and you can run your std rb20 box into the ground while you save for that R33GTSt box...

But RB26 seems the logical choice...i was only saying to someone yesterday that i wish Nissan had stayed true to the RWD philispohy with a 1350kg RWD GTR with pumped aluminium guards and RB26.

your wish has been granted and will be complete for Autosalon Final battle :wassup:

:confused: Buy a big ass turbo, bigegr injectors and cams to make a peaky but fun 250rwkws at about 1.3 -1.4 bar  

OR

Install a dead stock RB26 with std injectors, std turbos etc etc and make an easy 250rwkws ar 1-1.1 bar.

Hate to say it but the RB26 looks like a done deal. Chatting to a guy down here running an RB26 with std RB20 box, its lived for around 6 months and it sounds like he knows how to enjoy the cars performance. :D   The gearbox and front pipes/dump pipes add some cost though.

R32 GTST with RB26 would rock, good brakes, good susp, good power and reasonable weight at around 1350kg

They were exactly my thoughts roy.

I had a drive in a mates GTR the other week, and while he only produces about 15rwkw more than me, the RB26 is just so much more drivable than the RB20. sure mine is heaps of fun, and has been seriously reliable, but the RB26 feels so much greater, and the potential for more power and easy mods is there. it has a shitload more torque down low too.

I just cant justify spending any more on my RB20 when i should just get an RB26.

considering the sale of my RB20 and 2530 turbo, it would be fairly cost effective.

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