Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G-Attack R-tune :) I can adjust the spring damper rates on the dial on the top of the struts.. but I to adjust the camber u need camber plates or a camber kit..

Yes Troy, answer my PM punk! ;)

Roy, what's a good camber setting you would recommend? I think the stock camber is set at 1 degree... so maybe increase of 1-2 degrees negative? I want about 3 deg. negative on the front.

My car is heading into centerline next Friday to have the suspension installed and the rest of the setup done so I'll let you know how I go. What did you pay for the R-tune's if you dont mind me asking? New or used?

Roy, what's a good camber setting you would recommend? I think the stock camber is set at 1 degree... so maybe increase of 1-2 degrees negative? I want about 3 deg. negative on the front.

LOL...dont ask me. I played with my susp settings trying to gain a second or two and went backwards.

Depending on the castor etc you are running, i found 3.5 deg way too much. The car had alot of mid corner push/ understeer. I think it came back to the fact that there wasnt enough tyre patch on the road, as running plenty of castor gives you dynamic camber when you turn the wheel, so running too much static camber just reduces the amount of tyre in contact with the road whereby hurting braking/traction.

Onmy car 2.5deg C seemed to work well. BUT thats my car which has swaybars, different ride heights etc etc so your car will most likely be different. If you want to get close first go talk to an expert, when i started playing my cars handlign went backwards, but at least i learnt what doesnt work and why :)

Ill have a temp probe to measure tyre face temps ont he day, so will soon get an idea of you are workign the tyres properly ;)

pfft - what are you guys on about? Castor angles? Toe? Spring Rates?

Its all bollucks. Just get in the damn car and drive! ;)

Says the proud Australian..."She'll be right mate" :D

But 4wd cars dont seem to have near the appetite or sensitivity to killing semi comps :)

is it that or cause he drives like a girl? :D

so on the top parts of the suspension in the engine bay which things do u move?

the nuts and stuff on the left of the damper adjustment nob or on the right???

You running Nismo's too? R tune or S tune?

 

Was gonna say my R's dont have camber adjust and I didn't think any did!

 

Troy - When you looking at making these up?

will be making these in the next few weeks

is it that or cause he drives like a girl? :P

so on the top parts of the suspension in the engine bay which things do u move?  

the nuts and stuff on the left of the damper adjustment nob or on the right???

Do Cefiros run susp similar to the S13? ie Struts v wishbones? Sounds like they might. What shocks are you running, and im assuming you have adjustable strut tops.

If so then yeh you can tweak camber using that plate looking thingie that the shock top pokes through, and then you may be able to change the rebound etc of the shock by tweaking the knob on top of the shock body. Make sense?

Says the proud Australian..."She'll be right mate" :D  

But 4wd cars dont seem to have near the appetite or sensitivity to killing semi comps :P

well I did see a blue r34 with about an inch of tread missing on the outside of the front right. Those 4wd cheater just get to rotate rims all around so they can make them wear better. But its still the same problem, the car rolls onto the shoulder of the tyre

Check this thread for more info http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=28779

Here is some pricing I got about two months ago, Based on a 255/40 17", per tyre.

Falken Azenis ST115 - $320 - No stock

Falken Azenis RT215 - $340 - No stock

Toyo Trampios R1R - $519 - Avaliable

Toyo Proxies RA1 - $460 - Avaliable

Yokohama A048 - $520 - Avaliable

Yokohama A032 - $548 - Avaliable

Bridgestone RE55 - $400 - In a container at customs

Dunlop DJ01 - $521 - Avaliable

Here is the current pricing from Meridian

Toyo RA-1:

245/45/17 – n/a

255/40/17 - $470ea

235/45/17 - $420ea

23540/17 - $450ea

265/35/18 – n/a

275/35/18 - $570ea

255/40/18 – n/a

MATT,

STILL WAITING ON THE PRICES TO GOT FOR RE55's (17" RIMS).  OR ARE YOU JUST B.S'ing :)

:D h0h0h0... or maybe you're just BLIND :D

For the dyslexic people....

http://skylinesaustralia.com/forums/showth...ead.php?t=51352

BS indeed. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...