Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Torque Gauge Is Not Working As It Was With The Standard Gtr Wheels Its Constantly On 10?, The Guy I Brought The Wheels Of Said The Same Thing He Reckons Something To Do With Bigger Tres On The Back? Any Truth To This And How To Fix It?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51139-put-18s-on-and-the-torque-gauge-is/
Share on other sites

Guest Variable

I had the same problem on my 32 GTR a while back. Had some 3 month old 255/40 R17 Federals on the back and replaced the fronts with brand new 255/40 R17 Potenza S03's. The difference in rolling diameter was enough to put my torque gauge permantly on about 8. Put the new Potenzas on the back and everything went back to normal.

There is no law against putting the same size tyres on those rims.

245's will be happy on both those widths. Commodores have 235's on 8" rims

stock BNR34s run 245/40R18 on 9" wide wheels. It is all good dude!

Trivia:... 911 turbos use different diameter front and rear tyres to preload the viscous coupling that transfers torque front to rear.

all four wheel/tyre combos must be the same on a gtr.

No, you can have different widths front and back but the tyres you use have to have the SAME ROLLING Diameter.

So its just a matter of getting the right aspect ratio of the tyres correct.

Its the same if you get a partly flat tyre, the torque gauge tells you something is not right by running quarter way on constantly.

if you have different size tyres on (that arn't exactly the same rolling diam), the ATTESA picks up that one set of wheels (front or back) is spinning faster than the other set, so it gives you some front torque...

everyone i know with a GTR goes for same size wheels/tyres for this reason, plus we can fit them under our gaurds :D

the difference in wheel size may affect it though. cause when you put 245s over 9 inch wheels they will stretch more than on 8 inch. The more stretched, the less upright the sidewalls so the rolling diameter will be less.

or may be less. just a thought. can anyone clarify...

Yes... that is right. It all depends how smart the computer is

If it is 8.5 vs 9.0 inch and he is using 245/40R18's and lets just assume that 8.5" gives you a perfectly straight sidewall you would have a total diameter of 653.2mm So if we stick them on 9" wheels (6.35mm wide each side) and assume (there is that word again) that the sidewalls are 100% stiff and retain their 98mm length then the according to Mr Pythagoras new effective height would be 97.98mm which is probably something I have stuffed up...

So the difference would be 0.04mm on the total diameter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...