Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am wanting for my r32 to get off the boat, but last night was shattered to see a HSV sedan 260kw version totally smash an r32 gtst in a drag.

The r32 was man, had exhaust, could see front mount, and boost gauge. the HSV also manual but looked stock. They both tried as they both skidded on take off and reved the @##4 out of it.

Should this be happening?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52070-r32-gtst-vs-hsv/
Share on other sites

In the RB25DET i have no problems ripping down HSV's with the 285 badges on the sides. They will always get the head start because of our buddy turbo lag but then the main concentration is to keep traction. To beat a HSV your power has to be above 200Kw otherwise you stand no chance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52070-r32-gtst-vs-hsv/#findComment-1027379
Share on other sites

In the RB25DET i have no problems ripping down HSV's with the 285 badges on the sides. They will always get the head start because of our buddy turbo lag but then the main concentration is to keep traction. To beat a HSV your power has to be above 200Kw otherwise you stand no chance.

hehe, well they did say "Reason why god created turbo lag, was to give V8s a chance"

:jump:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52070-r32-gtst-vs-hsv/#findComment-1027907
Share on other sites

In the RB25DET i have no problems ripping down HSV's with the 285 badges on the sides. They will always get the head start because of our buddy turbo lag but then the main concentration is to keep traction. To beat a HSV your power has to be above 200Kw otherwise you stand no chance.

really chris? i thought you were on your L plates? being 17 and all...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52070-r32-gtst-vs-hsv/#findComment-1035103
Share on other sites

Thanks for stories and comments lol.

Knew r32 was never going to be racing menace but hey just something about the guys in commos where I'd love to be able to beat them in a 15k car compared to 90k or whatever they are.

Sorry didn't see if r32 driver was p plate driver or not - but sounded like he left second gear on the road - it crunched in pretty hard!

rookie or rich i guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52070-r32-gtst-vs-hsv/#findComment-1036310
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...