Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a kit made for my NM35 by Sydney Kit under the Selby brand.

There is a whole thread on the install.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...&hl=swaybar

Basically the rear is the same as a 350z.

Only downside is I am not sure Sydneykid is still running Selby and I am not sure if anyone is making the bar.

Cheers

Andy

Does anybody know the part number for bilstein shocks that go into the front of a S2 stagea RWD. And which model nissan match these shocks..Thanks for any help

This is an email response I got from NZ when I was looking for front shocks for my rwd s2, I found someone in Brizzy who will order them in for me. So I'm gonna do that as soon as I get my tax back :D

Hello,

Yes bilsteins are a excellent shock absorber, I just spoke with my product manager and he said try contacting Sydney shock absorbers as they also deal with Bilstein.

The part number to quote them will be BE5-2590

Could save a lot of hassle, time and money if you deal with them, if you have no luck with them then by all means contact me and let me know how you get on and I will try my best to help you out

Regards,

Shane Cooper

Autolign Sales

Unit 5/99 Carbine Rd

Mt Wellington

Auckland

Ph: 0064 9 574 2286

Fax: 0064 9 574 2275

Free Phone: 0800 868 900

e-mail: [email protected]

Selby website still have M35 and C34 swaybars listed...

Search for Nissan Stagea

AUD 250+GST for each end for us M35s...

a whole heap of choices for the C34 guys..

Would the M35 units be the same as what Andy has on his car? And are they suitable for ARX and other M35 versions..

Selby website still have M35 and C34 swaybars listed...

Search for Nissan Stagea

AUD 250+GST for each end for us M35s...

a whole heap of choices for the C34 guys..

Would the M35 units be the same as what Andy has on his car? And are they suitable for ARX and other M35 versions..

Yes they are. He used my OEM ones to make the Selby ones. Yes, suitable for the ARX

Do it!! You won't regret the decission.

I did them before I did the shocks and it made a huge difference to the handling.

Cheers

Andy

Yes they are. He used my OEM ones to make the Selby ones. Yes, suitable for the ARX

Do it!! You won't regret the decission.

I did them before I did the shocks and it made a huge difference to the handling.

Cheers

Andy

Yes, I think that will be my first proper mod, as the return on investment seems excellent. Just have to put it off for a while as I still have the unexpected Goodyear Eagle F1's to pay for this month, and I need to get the iPod kit ordered from the US and installed.

Reckon I can get these sway bars fitted myself, with the help of a set of body stands and a jack.

SK's instructions look good and clear.

So get the tyres paid for, tunes sorted, handling fixed... Then we can think about more powa... Maybe CES will be up to speed on M35 dumps by then... :P

hey every 1 i was wondering if i could get some advice on good springs for lowering my car, i hav an r34 skyline sedan with kyb adjustable shocks. i see places around advertising $400 to get your car lowered with king springs, is that the best way to go?

cheers

:ninja:

I've just put Bilsteins in my RS4 Stagea, got them through Car Torque here in Adelaide for a very good price, also did swaybars, still waiting on the rear to come in. Dave at Car Torque is getting some sway bars made up for the rear of the Stagea at the moment, people use the whiteline ones but the links don't sit strait and sometimes the bars don't bolt on at all. That's the problem I had.

Some notes about the shocks etc.

The shocks I used were R32 GTR fronts, R33gtst Rears

The front's come with 2 circlip grooves, the rears have only 1.

Using the heighest circlip grove on the front makes the spring seat sit approx 24mm lower than standard, the second groove is another 10mm lower again.

The rear springseat sits approx 10mm lower than standard.

Using the standard grooves, heighest on the front, the car will sit nicely but a little higher than ideal with the standard springs.

Machining one extra groove 10mm lower on the rear shock and using the lower groove on the front will have to car sitting at a better height, guard heights or 360mm front, 355 rear (approx, calculated)

I was going to engineer a set of springs to get the ride height spot on without any machining but I found that I already had lowered Tein items in there so I machined circlip grooves to suit.

Edited by Race__24

That'll be me who's getting those rear bars made up by Car Torque.

:(

See:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4621964

For all the details.

FWIW, as supplied, Nismo Bilsteins look to have circlip grooves at the stock height, and lower already.

An update on the C34 Stagea rear bars I've had made:

The fixed one fits perfectly - slips straight over the link rods, no angularity issues.

22mm fixed - $238

22mm adjustable - $270

Speak to Car Torque Products in Adelaide for availability, I think they have had about 3 of each made by Selbys.

An update on the C34 Stagea rear bars I've had made:

The fixed one fits perfectly - slips straight over the link rods, no angularity issues.

22mm fixed - $238

22mm adjustable - $270

Speak to Car Torque Products in Adelaide for availability, I think they have had about 3 of each made by Selbys.

I've just fitted the adjustable version to my S1 RS4. It fits like factory.

Next on the list of things to do is to modify the front whiteline bar with some retainers to stop it slipping side to side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...