Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you will get 15-20 rwkw difference with no tuning and you can up the boost to 16-17 psi without riskung ceramic in the cat. This combo with a good tune will get you 200rwkw. its a great upgrade.

I am in the middle of doing this right now. Today my friend managed to get the turbo off, and on. HOWEVER, the bend that bolts onto the compressor housing is different. I didnt get it when i bought the turbo which means finding one from the wrecker. But other than that its been a piece of pi55!

you will get 15-20 rwkw difference with no tuning and you can up the boost to 16-17 psi without riskung ceramic in the cat. This combo with a good tune will get you 200rwkw.  its a great upgrade.

Will be interesting to see if it really makes 200rwkws. Thats pretty good power

you will get 15-20 rwkw difference with no tuning

Yes

and you can up the boost to 16-17 psi without riskung ceramic in the cat.

No, :uhh:

The stock RB25 turbo wont handel much over 14psi for long periods of time. Before you put the exhaust wheel into the cat. If that doesnt happen the turbo will over spin and you will lose power.

Best safe efficency for a RB25 stock turbo would be around 10 - 12psi

Other than that.

Its fairly simple job, Just have to re-seal gasekts - If their still good other wise if their broken get new ones. Dont loose the copper washers for your water lines :) - you need 2 washers on each line.

:cheers:

Jun

Oh and does anyone else have the markings they can tell me on their turbo's? are they 45 V 4 just so i'm sure, coz i have to find the bend that comes off the compressor outlet from a wreckers and dont want to get something thats different. Help would be great thanks guys.

i was under the impression on an rb20 you could get away with running a little more boost due to the fact the turbo doesnt have to work as hard, filling only a 2ltr engine, and that you could run around 15psi kinda thing no problems ?

The ceramic delaminates due to the velocity at the point it meets the metal shaft.

example

the turbine produces 14psi at 100,000 rpm on the rb25, (lets call this point of stress)

then we devide 2500 by 5 20 get 2000 so we also devide 100,000 (shaft speed) by 5 fo get 80,000. So the shaft spins 20% slower to produce the same PSI.

So if you increase the shaft speed to 100,000 on the rb20 you will be spinning it at the same speed as the rb25 but producing around 15-17 PSI

See :D

These figures are used as an example and do not reflect the actual speeds of the shaft.

As the turbo has a larger compressor, It will produce more volume of air through the valves for a given PSI rating. (more airflow) at a lower temp because it is using less effort to generate the same volume.

In my experience you almost will not notice the difference in spool up time. plus the rb20 turbo drops off at around 6000rpm but the rb25 turb pulls hard all the way to redline!

:rave:

I've had an rb25 turbo on my r32 for a fair while now. I run it at 14psi with no probs. makes 180-190rwkw depending on the day.

As sombody mentioned earlier the only differance when putting it on is that bendy pipe that bolts onto the compressor won't fit the new turbo. I had to cut and shut with another peice from an earlier series rb20 to make it fit.

You will notice the power delivery is alot different to the stock turbo aswell, a little laggier but much more pull up top. Really goes well once its wound up. :whip:

straight turbo swap, depending on the boost u run, i would recommend a fuel pump anyway, saves hassles. Walboro intank pumps are my choice for mild setups anyway, fitted one to a mates cefiro with rb25det in it. Had to chop the wires and use connectors but that was not big deal

i just completed this swap last weekend, using a r34 gt-t turbo (nylon impeller, same as r33 s2 i think)

it came with the compressor outlet elbow so it was no biggy

findings are more power on less boost (2-3psi less) altho it is slightly laggier then i imagined, however this could be a tuning issue

top end is much better tho :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...