Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was told if the clear is peeling, like on the mirrors, there is a problem with the paint.

You never know what the problem is, it could even be the primer, so you have to strip it all off.

Thats why i stripped my car to metal, and im glad i did, there was a mix of acrylic, 2 pack, and who knows what else.

From what i can see, its different on the bonnet. Lets hope so, or it will be expensive.

The colour matching should be good as its not metallic, but because its red, it gets attacked by uv the most and will fade quicker than other colours.

So you might get a small missmatch in colour after a couple of years.

Thats why paint problems really suck, because you know it will need a full re-paint sooner or later when it starts looking crappy again.

  • Like 1

Respray the Mirrors and Bonnet BLACK! (no colour matching required)

Get your wheels Powder Coated Black or White.

Would Look Awesome. :thumbsup: and gain 50 - 70kws. :woot:

only 50 you'll need fluffy dice to get 70 out of it ..... :closedeyes:

But love the thinking Rob, very logical solution ... do we go matt black? I'll pick up some cans (coz I'm old enough to get em with no Q's) ... you pick up the sandpaper .... into it! :D

Plasti dip costs around $30 a spray can. Different colours like paint but it's a plasticy rubber stuff that you can just peel off without needing paint stripper / sanding etc... SUPPOSEDLY won't harm the paint underneath. (although I've read of it happening)

https://www.plastidip.net.au/

Thats cheap cf vynil in the photo. Nasty stuff..... Oh your grille... oops

Well i do have a compressor and spray guns, etc. If you went acrylic i have thinners and everything. For plastidip youd need a special spray gun.

Aerosol is hard to avoid splatter.

Vynil is best done in summer when its warm. Very difficult when cold.

Black is a good idea, easy to do, cost hardly anything.

Waiting for wax to dry a bit....... too cold.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Hehe rob <3

Yeah plastidip is weird.. Spray it on and it bubbles and does weird things and then dries smooth.. You just need to make sure the surface is really clean beforehand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...