Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's not oil because it doesn't do that when I'm on 98. Just unburnt fuel.Only does it when decelerating from WOT. If I ease up normally it doesn't do it. Will check compression just incase something is wrong with the rings.

Sounds like valve stem seals... Should be no difference on 95 and 98 for fuelling...

And trouble shooting no start with crank could be anything.

from a popped IC hose, to a snapped cam, hence CAS not turning.

Has it got fuel in the way of you can spin the crank and the injectors will fire?

Thats interesting...... the fuel thing.

I wonder if it would have something to do with the fuel and the oil on the cylinder wall from the rings.

You know how if its too rich it cleans off the oil lubricating the piston in the cylinder? Thats what ive heard anyway.

Different fuel may have a different viscosity or something.

And you said the plugs were clean?

That would suggest an oil leak after the plugs, or during the exhaust stroke. Like the turbo exhaust side oil seal, or, exhaust valve stem seals.

Anyway maybe you should get someone to confirm its still smoking before pulling it apart.

checked compression and 120,123,125,120,120,120. This was a cold test with a bit of oil squirted inside. Not sure if i can still have compression with a broken cam. Checked the loom for continuity and its good, checked the iginition relays and they have connection. Im really confused why theres no spark.

No spark sux on an injected car.

So many wires, earths and plugs to check.

Youll find it eventually.

Ps: Have you seen those bluetooth ODB plug things?

You can do diagnostic with the i phone now.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Bryce - any chance Ed can drop by after work ? No harm in asking....... (Especially if they resolved the first starting issue). Assuming your still using AutoTech

He should be able to bring pc & plug in consult. As hinted at above, Vipec may be your issue

Either that or $70 to get it taken there.

BTW. Ed's working through Christmas with only the PH's off.

Ahhhh it finally started I just pulled out every fuse,relay and connections and reestablished them. I earthed the coilpack to strut brace and tried it again. Seeing the spark was the most delighting thing. Put everything back in and it started straight away. So it was just a loose connection somewhere.

I did plugin into the vipec as I have the software and it said nothing which was a bit shit. But I guess it wouldn't figure the error out without connection.

Thanks again guys.

When i purchased my car the old owner gave me a set of Z32 Air Flow Metres, i am now thinking of selling them but first i need to find out if they work

Has anybody got a car that runs the Z32 AFM that can test with my AFMs?

Not me, been too many times.

Bored, bored bored.

I think ill run that upper engine cleaner through it today.

Maybe another wash too.

Last time it rained as i finished, pushed it in the shed wet, now its got big dusty watermarks everywhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...