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OK guys my mechanic ran a great test on my oil cooler 2 days ago using an heat temperature gauge we let the car cool then measured the temps for oil cooler pipes going into the cooler core and out of the cooler core. Then we started up the car and you could literally, with the temp gauge, see hot engine oil going into the cooler and cooler oil going out of the cooler. He never had any hesitation about the cooler as he has been in the car with me for 5 hot laps (at that time he was the one who told me to head back into pits as he was watching my oil temps) and he installed it and he thinks 5 hot laps of Eatern Creek on a hot day is about right for my GT-R.

So I have just ordered a bigger cooler in hope it will bring temps down but my mechanic thinks I am wasting my cash as it won;t make that much difference... ie: my mission to stay out for 10 hardcore hot laps is not achievable by simply installing a bigger cooler. :D

Out of interest what were the temps of the oil coming out of the cooler?

I would hope there is a way of getting more then 5 laps out of a GTR at the track? Have you thought baout running Mobil1....i always used to run it as it "apparantly" is just about the most stable oil when it comes to high temps...ppl even seem to comment that the oil temps are lower when running Mobil 1. For a single sump it may be worth a try?!?!?!!?

Duncan can you please tell me exactly what kind of system you are running on your GT-R's? I don't care about costs. My mission is to build a car I can race for more than 5 hot laps!!!

Bonnet with vents, will that help? Cutting out holes in the front bumper? Or am I really just looking in the wrong places here? DUNCAN HELP!!! If you can go for an hour I need to know how you do it!!!

Marcus, just relocate the cooler and maybe whack some ducting on. A decent piece of ally will cost $30 from a good trade hardware store and get good tin snips. For a good high resolution temp guage go to Jaycar electronics. I had to put an extension in mine to reach the front of the engine bay.

Oil-wise, the distributor of Redline oils almost recommended the Mobil stuff as it also has the same secret ingredient as Redline. He said he ran a race car (super tourer I think) with 30psi oil pressures and the engine lasted ages. If the oil is lubricating without having to be a high viscosity product it will not generate that extra heat due to high viscosity. His comment was the HRT team had that great engine reliability compared to the others, then one of the team members moved to a new team and spilled the beans on the oil they used. He says almost every other team now uses Redline regardless of what the Sponsors name is. Hard to believe I know but apparently the polyolester is the trick additive. He also suggested the water wetter will bring the engine temp down several degrees due to improved cooling.

I'd definitely recommend testing any temp guage installed as well to verify the readings. Ferny's idea on series mounting of coolers is a good one too.

Basically though I'd be dead keen to hear if something simple like filling up with Mobil or Redline does anything significant. I will be conducting some basic testing soon, but possibly not soon enough to help.

lol I can't go for an hour, for me its over in a couple of minutes at best :rolleyes:

But anyway....thats why I think there must have been something wrong with your setup. We car in Group 3E which means stock cars only.

So we run standard radiator, intercooler and running n1 spec lets us use an oil cooler. Air con heat exchanger is also removed. The oil cooler in question is pretty big tho, about 25cm tall, it sits where the air con heat exhanger used to be ie behind intercooler and radiator. Standard oil filter, and no thermostat since everything is flat out when racing.

We have trouble with other oils (powersteer, atessa fluid, rear diff) but not engine oil.

edit: sorry forgot to mention it is an n1 style front bar with the 2 extra vents. bonnet, guards, support all stock

OH OK! LOL.

OK then on another note, some of you guys might know, why do race cars in Japan (and all over the world) with RB26 engines leave their spark plug covers off? I have heard that the temps in there can cause the spark plugs to stuff up? So taking it off is a good thing?

well it may be a question of temp, but we are just too lazy to put the cover on and off all the time :rolleyes: we just use copper plugs and change them regularly.

Be careful doing it in a road car tho, you need to make sure no water gets in

I'm with Duncan...copper plugs, laziness and water, but I've never had water in the plug valley except when cleaning and then I do it with the engine warm and then soak the water out and take the ignition packs out to get rid of all water if any gets in. Just regular maintenance to keep an eye on various parts.

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