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post-29091-1149499768.jpg

heres the dyno sheet for my other entry

stock turbo

series 2 gtst

040 fuel pump

malpassi 2:1 regulator

HKS Mechanical Boost gauge

HKS pod

HKS type-s intercooler kit

HKS Old school sequential BOV

HKS 3.5 inch Cat back exhaust

SS Auto chrome Split dump and 3 inch front pipe

Turbosmart bleed valve

Apexi power FC ECU and Commander

Apexi turbo timer

And this run was done on 275/30/R19 tires

1995 R33 GTS-t

HKS GT2530kai turbo

3" Turbo Back Exhaust (Split dump pipe)

Custom Exhaust Manifold (TuneAgent)

Hybrid FMIC

Blitz POD

Apexi SAFC II

SARD Fuel Regulator

BP ULTIMATE 98ron

Dyno @ 1.1bar = 232rwkw

post-29255-1149680810.jpg

Coming Soon...

Fuel Pump

Injectors

PFC

Edited by MKDR33

I have a r33 94 series 1 with

Full exaust 3' into twin pipes 2' each

ITS Turbo T3 T04E

35mm tail gate

044 fuel pump

Nismo Fuel Pressure Reg

standard injectors

standard AFM

Apexi air filter

Apexi Powerfc

Apexi Pfc boost kit

Universal FMIC

Hks ssqv

Exedy heavy duty clutch

Machined and balanced crank

87.0mm Arias forged pistons

standard head

262rwkw on 18psi

post-10208-1162553398.jpg

Edited by str8g

ECR33

stock turbo

stock boost 7.5psi = 0.5 bar

HKS pod filter + custom CAI

Apexi PFC + Datalogit

FMIC

split dump

3 inch front pipe into 3 inch cat

3.25 inch Blitz cat-back system with 2.5 inch bolt-in baffle restrictor in place

98 octane Caltex fuel

Splitfire coils

result 223hp = 165kW

sorry for the size of attachment don't know how to resize yet.post-19642-1150288704.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

465rwhp/347rwkw at 21psi on pump gas (93 octane in the US)

Stock head, stock cams, stock intake manifold.

Wiseco Pistons, Eagle rods, custom headgasket w/ARP's

550cc injectors, Nismo AFPR, Walbro 255.

GT35R w/Tial 38mm WG

Custom side dump exhaust and wastegate dump

AEM EMS

The car can make MUCH more power easily. The coilpacks weren't liking the higher boost, so it's time for Splitfire's I guess.

Edited by SleepingTalon

I had a Sliding Performance Highflow and made 220rwkw on 12 psi

I ended up running 17 psi shortly after but dont know what sort of power i were making on 17 as i didnt have it dyno'd

Mines ECU

3" turbo back exhaust

FMIC

Dual Stage boost controller

Pod filter

And the Sliding Performance Highflow turbo

Sliding Performance has just finished my complete engine rebuild and ive upgraded to one of his Biagio GT3076 turbo's.

Just finished running it in and it will be dynoed on Tuesday :D

Evo 8

motec

exhaust

unknown tune state + boost

R33 GTST

powerfc

fmic

exhaust

12psi

clutch etc

both on the same dyno, just a comparison.

the evo has more average power everywhere

post-2054-1152708600.jpg

made 251rwhp on 10psi hiflow standard turbo 450hp

front mount

z32 airflowmeter

3inch dump pipe

pump fuel

http://www.tuffstreetcars.com/skyline2.pdf

http://www.tuffstreetcars.com/skyline.pdf

ran into probs with nock and boost

max 13deg timing and lot of knock could not run anymore timing or boost into it.

Edited by Turbo Dan
With so many threads about turbo upgrades for RB25's i thought itd be a good idea to start a thread that shows results only, as the results from various threads are scattered everywhere. Everyone has there own ideas about what power they want so obviously there isnt ONE perfect turbo upgrade for everyone.

Please post your RB25 dyno graphs only and state the following:

-Engine management

-Boost ran

-Fuel used (pump or special)

-significant engine mods (eg cams)

The idea of this thread is to be a quick reference to various turbo's performances on RB25's, not to be a discussion thread.

Thanks

(If this has been done already let me know, but didnt come up one in search.)

just got my rb25 powered r 31 back from tune

rb25

microtech

gcg hi flow

fmic

standard injectors

3 inch turbo back

98 ultimate

walbro pump

216 rwkw on 10 psi

240 rwkw on 16 psi

GTST sedan 94 model

powerfc

555cc injectors

040 intank pump

hiflow turbo to4e wheels

apexi air intake

straight through zorst

no cat

98ron fuel

1.2bar

micks front mount cooler

standard internals

347hp @ wheels

:)

im happy with this result

Edited by R334door

r33 95 S1.5 GTS25T

230 Rwkw @ 12 Psi

T3/T4 Highflowed VL Turbo

GTR FMIC

GTR Fuel Pump

Apexi S-AFCII (12:1 AFR)

3" Exhaust Turbo Back (inc. Highflow Cat)

K & N Pod Filter

Irodium Spark Plugs

BP Ultimate 98 Octane Fuel

Stock RB25DET engine.

AFR

dyno71004afrdv1.jpg

Boost

dyno71004hq8.jpg

I've noticed the S1.5 r33’s in this thread seem to be making more efficient power (over the S1)? Maybe just a coincidence.

Edited by geno8r

R33 sII

Gt spec front mount

3inch xforce turbo back "race exhaust"?

5-9PSI (low3000rpms-high5000rpms)

and know idea wat internals

KSP tuned stock ecu

218kw@ 6000

Dyno may be wrong???????

or some sick internals????

s2 r33 gtst

rb26 crankshaft

Tomie forged Piston/ring set

Nismo bearing main/conrod set

GTR N1 oil pump

GTR fuel pump

3" Trust dump/engine pipe

3" Apexi exhaust

Apexi power fc

hybrid intercooler

12 psi

standard turbo

193.0 rwkw

post-30233-1154331898.jpg

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As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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