Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gonna have to get my car dynoed when it comes (eventually), hopefully after some bigger injectors go in and raise the boost a tad, first i have to get it engineered and rego'd tho :P

hrmmm watch this space, twin turbo RB20 R31 has arrived today, drove it down to autosport engineering to get started on it.

The previous owner said it made around 160rwkw and the mods are as follows:

FMIC, twin turbo setup using RB26 turbos and manifolds, 3" exhaust with 3" hi flow cat, 700hp fuel pump (have to ask him what brand or dig up the receipt), heavy duty clutch (once again have to dig up the receipt or ask him), microtech LT8 ecu, twin pod filters.

I must admitt, when driving it, it did feel like it went hard, even though i wasn't pushing it too hard, but the figures he told me were, well, somewhat lower than what i'd expect with this sort of setup. ATM it's running 9psi boost and injectors are at max or very close to max duty cycle (standard RB20 injectors, had some 800cc/min ones on but the bloke said they were meant for rotors to he took em off and went back to standard as they were stuffing up or something).

Can anyone tell me if these figures look about right? I might get it re-dynoed/do another power run once it is engineered to see for myself.

anyway, would these figures be fairly typical of a setup like this? (not common, but if you go off factory turbo specs it might give you some idea/grounds for comparison)

Sum it up?

intake, decent sized turbo, efficient cooler, good dump, 3 inch minimum exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, ecu with a good tune, big hit of boost, wait untill about 4,000rpm for the turbo to wake up, HANG ON while it skates across the road = 260rwkw.

Oh, last but not least the most important mod of all, MONEY!!!!!!!

Sum it up?

intake, decent sized turbo, efficient cooler, good dump, 3 inch minimum exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, ecu with a good tune, big hit of boost, wait untill about 4,000rpm for the turbo to wake up, HANG ON while it skates across the road = 260rwkw.

Oh, last but not least the most important mod of all, MONEY!!!!!!!

i'll add,

Z32 airflow meter, unless your obviously using a MAP sensor in which case you can remove the AFM restriction :mellow:

with RB20 the best options for ecu are: remapped stock ecu or Apexi PowerFC.

my 2c.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well finally drove my car today after 3 months off the road putting all the original kit on (had to do pretty much everything again as the crazy japs bodged everything). but anyway feels fast, very laggy though, as in doesnt pull boost till about 4k and full boost by nearly 5k (even with the rb24).. hopefully get it on the dyno on monday to check that everything is sweet a/f and knock-wise and i'll post up my results.

gearbox doesnt sound promising, gave it two quick squirts in 3rd to about 6k and its already sounding like the mainshaft bearing has collapsed.

update early this coming week and hopefully gearbox lasts the dyno run and i can make it into the club :blink:

dodgy phone pic:

post-1089-1134215804.jpg

Edited by kwazza11
Well finally drove my car today after 3 months off the road putting all the original kit on (had to do pretty much everything again as the crazy japs bodged everything). but anyway feels fast, very laggy though, as in doesnt pull boost till about 4k and full boost by nearly 5k (even with the rb24).. hopefully get it on the dyno on monday to check that everything is sweet a/f and knock-wise and i'll post up my results.

gearbox doesnt sound promising, gave it two quick squirts in 3rd to about 6k and its already sounding like the mainshaft bearing has collapsed.

update early this coming week and hopefully gearbox lasts the dyno run and i can make it into the club :P

dodgy phone pic:

holy fiznuck!

whats the ar on that turbo? from the pic the housing looks absolutely ginormous!

just curious but how do you know its a rb24?

also is that the gtr intake manifold mated to the rb20?

ar is unknown probably a .82, wheels are huge though, 72mm front and rear! its a kkk k27 and apart from that i've got no info on it.

bought the car in japan with the gtr crank and rods with tomei 82mm pistons already in it. havent actually pulled the sump off and measured the thing but from the feel of the motor with standard everything its definately more torquey than my last rb20.

and yea manifold is 2/3rds rb26 and 1/3 rb20. basically rb26 injector bosses welded to the plenum then that welded to the end of a rb20 manifold. not the most advanced piece of kit but should do the job now that i've ported it to get rid of the weld protrusion they left in there.. :)

post-1089-1134268990.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...