Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nothing was changed that would make a difference. It blew out the turbo to mani gasket mid tuning so that had to be replaced. The areas of concern still need to be looked at but with tuner busy before he goes on holidays we had to focus on the tuning and fiddly bits. So when I get it back this weekend I am going to redo all the piping with Wiggins clamps as once the undertrays and brake ducts etc go back on buggered if I will ever be able to get to a blown cooler hose

  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I would post the dyno run.

gallery_462_50_314527.jpg

Got Phillip island in 10 days, then play with trying to optimise boost with a controller. May throw the bigger turbo on to see if I cant get 330-340rwks out of the std RB20 :) I really have no idea how long its going to last at this boost and power, I was mega comfortable at 260-270 but I am kind of in uncharted waters here

That's big power Roy, even when I pushed my RB20 as hard as I could I didn't get that much :) Do you still have the standard RB20 box? God knows how that is holding up, I had a wack less power and managed to break a RB25 box

In saying that I don't actually think you will have issues with reliability, pistons, rod and crank should be fine, E85 is the juice of Gods... The bearings may take a beating but who knows, time will tell.

Yeh std 210,000km gearbox. I take it pretty easy with shifts and only run a spring centre puck Exedy clutch and only run top of the shelf Castrol gearbox fluid. I feel as though I am living on borrowed time at present with the engine and the box. It has served me well IF it goes the way of the Dodo. Hope not, would be funny if it hangs around for a little while longer and gets some improved track times to boot.

The motors just don't seem to die!

I'm running the Castrol good stuff in my box at the moment but changing it out for some Redline shockproof because my syncros don't like keeping up all the time. People think Redlines shit for boxes but when it's likely to break sooner or later I really don't give a shit as long as it stops crunching haha

Edited by SimonR32

lol the redline will stop the crunching, and take the syncros with it (from what I have seen)

its an oil with abrasive qualities which end up deglazing your synchros and in theory keep everything in tip top form. On an old gearbox though it will generally strip away more than you want to.

If you want to try deglaze the synchros before you give it a try, do this:

with the motor on and car stopped hold the clutch on the verge of friction point (so it wont actually let you into gear)

then try to select the gear you want to fix, as you firmly attempt to select the gear you will notice the revs drop (if they dont drop your not doing it right)

only do it for 2 or 3 seconds at a time and i dont recommend doing it forever in a day. I got this from a high level gearbox fab guy, this trick fixed the box in my old Evo 4 to perfection.

It sounds like I need some injectors and some corn syrup. Luckily I'm about to move 10mins from a supply. But way further from my tuner. :(

Roy, what are the specifics of the new injectors and the nismo pump if I may ask?

I'm thinking my Bosch 023 would be better replaced by a stock fitting pump (ala nismo) and the injectors aren't upto the task anyway.

Edited by Wheezy

Its just a Nismo in-tank pump. Injectors are something or others around 800cc I think and for giggles Nismo fuel pressure reg. Nothing exotic about the fuel system at all. I am reading some of this stuff may not be E85 compatible but meh...I am also running 95 on the street so system is getting regularly flushed

  • 2 years later...

Anyone ever experience their rb20det running in and out of rich 10 afrs and then 12s switching back and forth?

I am assuming it runs 10's on cold start up map but will it go rich when too hot as well? Or is it my fan drawing to much power.

All of this was noted on idle.

Rx

Vaccum leak would make it lean not rich.

And you run very rich, on cold startup I have 12 and the engine enter close loop pretty quickly if the engine sees some lights revs/work.

Blown fuel reg maybe.

Clean you AAC valve for your dying symptom after some revving.

Plugs were fouled so I changed them with the bcpr6es and the idle surging/spiking to almost dieing went away. Cleaned iacv, and messed with the tps, set it too .5v closed and it 4.2v wot. Ordered a new maf. Has a small miss and still runs 10's in afrs while cold.

For is set at 46psi not running and 36psi at idle with vacuum on.

Not sure what the deal is.

Rx

Edited by rx-line
  • 3 weeks later...

10537363_10203468636890315_4752197572718

Stock unopened RB20DET out of an R32.

Kando TD06-20G 8CM

NZ Performance Himount manifold

Turbosmart 45mm Gate

Bosch ID1000 inj

United 107 Raceblend

Profec B Spec II

302kw @ 25PSI

Could have kept going but Cyl 5 is looking a little tired on the comp test... have backed boost off to 18PSI and she is making 273kw now

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...