Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oosh is a legend.

It's official I missed the link underneath the db25 connector on the H/C !!!

Wow - I didn't even notice it - thanks Oosh you're a champ.

As for me getting it working earlier than you - I doubt that very very much, since now I'm looking for a solenoid.. and I don't even know if I have one let alone what it looks like!

:P

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The solenoid looks like the one in the performance jaycar book thingy for cars. If you follow the diagram, it shows that the solenoid should be used to bleed off some pressure stock. Follow the boost hoses.

I tried to give you a ring mate, but you didn't answer. Good to hear you got it working.

I love the feeling of solving a problem

what about my other part, my turbosmart isn't electronic. Is there great benefit in going to electronic?

This particular design (of electronic) has several advantages, the best one for me is the ability to have ZERO boost pressure at the wastegate actuator. This means (unlike beled valves or other designs of electronic controllers) the wastegate is absolutely closed until you program it to be open. The result is the FASTEST possible boost build that your engine and turbo combination can deliver.

Your Turbosmart is simply a bleed valve, it lets some boost preessure escape so that the wastegate actuator sees a lower pressure. This means you get higher boost. BUT it alllows SOME boost pressure to get to the wastegate actuator, this means the wastegate starts opening long before your target boost pressure. So you get slower boost build.

There are many other advantages (they are in my previous posts) but for me that is the one I personally like the best:cheers:

thanks mate, sounds like a worth while upgrade. currently the car seems to hit boost when it wants to. it's not consistant as to when it does it boost and as you say is pretty slow to build up.

I think I'll buy the IEBC and hand controller. IS there any other option for an EBC at this price point?

cheers

Great work funky - thanks for the groupbuy, no doubt I'll get a few mates in on this.

I have a quick question for S-Kid, or anyone who has this installed and can answer.

With the little T connector and soldered hole they get you to put in to relieve pressure after a "boost event" my question is does this bleed a tiny amount when you're on boost anyway?

S-Kid I think you said you were going to keep it a specific size because you expect to have an exhaust put on - I didn't quite understand the reasoning behind this. Why would a free-er flowing exhaust mean you have less boost stuck in that line? Is it because the assumption is after a boost event it goes out through the exhaust easier?

I'm just not too sure how to get the correct size to make sure I am relieving the pressure necessary, without losing too much.

Ta.

Oosh is a legend.

It's official I missed the link underneath the db25 connector on the H/C !!!

Wow - I didn't even notice it - thanks Oosh you're a champ.

As for me getting it working earlier than you - I doubt that very very much, since now I'm looking for a solenoid.. and I don't even know if I have one let alone what it looks like!

:P

That's great, hopefully that's the last of your woes relating to the electronics, now on to the pnuematics...

Solenoid: I used a R33 GTST item which was very kindly donated to me by NoZila despite my repeated attempts to give him money. Cheers mate! :P

Hosing: If using a R33 solenoid item you need to go for 4-5mm (5/32" to 3/16") inner diameter (ID) hosing, take your solenoid along and trial fit as the two barbs are very close together and if the hoising outer diameter (OD) is too large you'll struggle to fit both with hose clamps.

T-piece: I got a brass item which was for 1/4" ID hose because i DIDN'T trial fit my hose first, but i stretched the smaller diameter hose over it no worries.

Bleed Restriction: You have several options in order of complexity and cost, solder up the brass T-piece, add a bit of hose with a restrictor, add a needle valve.

I went with second item as i don't presently have access to a drill and didn't find a valve right away (I'm also worried about vibrations changing the opening size).

When i was @ supercheap i found a plastic 6mm -> 3mm adator (for $1 on clearance), the whole inside the 3mm is ~1.5mm, so shoved that inside a length of hose and attached it to the T.

I plumbed it all in last night and it looks a little something like this:

             Atmo (or plumback)

              ^

              |

            |   |       ____________

            |   |      |            |

Restrictor-> |/ |      |            |

            || ||      |  Solenoid  |

            |   |      |            |

            |   |      |__        __|

            || ||"T"            /

_____________ | | _________ |    |

         ____| |____   ___/     |

<-- OUT  ___________   ___      |

_____________     _________     |

                           |    |

___________________________ |    |

                       ___/     |

 IN -->                ___      |

________________________________|

Obviously the solenoid is upside down, I disconnected the hose from the actuator and that becomes "IN", then i ran hose from the "OUT" back to the actuator completing the "loop".

I've only set it up very roughly (wires are a mess atm) and made some conservative map settings (very quickly done) but i must say the car "feels" better, enough to not just chalk it up to "placebo effect", boost builds faster and with the stock turbo I'm running the power delivery feels much more progressive.

It's holding 12psi relatively well and doesn't seem to spike over 13psi, I need to get up in to the hills and spend more time on-road tuning, and then some final tweaks on the dyno are scheduled for early April.

Hi SK - Since the IEBC used injector duty cycle in it algorithm to control 'stuff' - do you think that this would work with a diesel turbo ?

Bump ?? I guess that means no-one knows ?? :P

Bump ?? I guess that means no-one knows ?? :P

If it is an electronically injected diesel it will work. If it is mechanical injection it won't. How do you tell? If the injectors have wires hanging out of the them, then they are electronic. If there is only fuel connections to the injectors, then they are mechanical. No big deal, diesels work quite well with bleeed valves.:P

It should work as long as-

You have a turbo, wastegate and you "splice" in a solenoid with a "restricter" between the solenoid and the wastegate and you can find your injector wire from your computer.

If you need more explanation PM me or ask here.

I'm going to install this system in my r32 gtst over the easter break, could someone explain why you need to bleed off air from the solenoid outlet? And why you need a restrictor?

Shouldnt the solenoid just stop the air until you hit the desired boost, then let the air through to open the wastegate? Or have a missed something?

Gday Rhett,

This was explained to me, so I can't take credit for having understood it on my own...

Basically the restrictor/bleed peice acts to let off pressure built up between the normally closed solenoid and the wastegate actuator.

When the actuator feels boost pressure (such as when your on boost) it will get to a certain pressure and then "actuate", to move the shaft that in turn opens the wastegate, letting pressure out around the turbine and keeping you at the stock boost level.

When you put in the solenoid as part of this kit, it will be normally closed, so after you've been boosting and take your foot off the accell, the solenoid will shut. This traps the pressured air between the wastegate actuator and the shut solenoid, because that has nowhere to go (as it's not stuck between the actual wastegate itself, only the actuator) it will sit between the solenoid and actuator and keep your wastegate open, which means you will have absolutely NO boost because the wastegate actuator thinks you're on boost, and is keeping the wastegate open.

Hope that makes sense.

i have soldered up the IEBC and hand controller kits and found a solenoid off a blitz boost controller, and I have some questions if any one is kind enough to share their knowledge. Hopefully someone knows some of this!

Would this Blitz boost control solenoid likely be fast reacting and hence require increasing the pulse frequency of the IEBC? Is it likely to have a good duty cycle range?

It has three connections so I guess I block one off?

Any ideas where I can source a brass T piece?

Would this Blitz boost control solenoid likely be fast reacting and hence require increasing the pulse frequency of the IEBC?

No idea, I can only suggest you try it.

Is it likely to have a good duty cycle range?

Yep

It has three connections so I guess I block one off?

You will have to work out which is the normally closed port, simply blow into each port and find the one that doesn't flow. Then apply 12 volts and make sure that port opens and block off the one that doesn't have any airflow.

Any ideas where I can source a brass T piece

Auto-One, AutoPro, Repco, AutoBarn basically anyone, but SupaCheap (they only have plastic ones).

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Sorry to deviate a little - but sk, when you put that 1-1.5mm boostrestrictor/pressure leveler in the hose that bleeds air back into turbo inlet (where solenoid used to be) did the boost spike much? I hear people with pneumatic boost controllers having 1-2psi spike. I was going to replace the solenoid with a simple needle valve so I dont wreck the solenoid and then I can adjust boost to 10psi. This should have the same result as you putting this orifice type piece in that hose I would imagine except the hole size would then be adjustable, hence contolling how much air is bled and hence the boost the engine sees. I just dont want boost to spike too much if possible.

Sorry to deviate a little - but sk, when you put that 1-1.5mm boostrestrictor/pressure leveler in the hose that bleeds air back into turbo inlet (where solenoid used to be) did the boost spike much?  I hear people with pneumatic boost controllers having 1-2psi spike.   I was going to replace the solenoid with a simple needle valve  so I dont wreck the solenoid and then I can adjust boost to 10psi.  This should have the same result as you putting this orifice type piece in that hose I would imagine except the hole size would then be adjustable, hence contolling how much air is bled and hence the boost the engine sees.  I just dont want boost to spike too much if possible.

By using the standard restrictor as a bleed off, I didn't have very rapid boost build. In fact it was quite gentle, as the restrictor bleeds off the same amount of airflow all the time. Plus it is routed back into the inlet to the turbo which means it has progressive (but minor) vacuum applied to it. Consequently I had zero boost spiking. This method works quite well at 7-8 psi and removes the low boost (4 psi) which is the main reason I did it. I would not be confident for boost levels over 12 psi as a whole new set of aerodynamics are involved.

I don't see why a needle valve wouldn't work the same, but I am not in any way an expert in aerodynamics. The effect of temperature on needle valves should not be underestimated. Again it would depend on the boost target,

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...