Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an ARC airbox on my R32 GTR... Does the job but miss the induction note I used to get on m other cars. If I go to HKS pods and filters do you get an induction sound? If I do this I will be fabricating a shield around them to duct in the cold air etc as I realise the ARC is doing a good job.

Also foam or mesh .. different induction note?

Or maybe this is bollox and will sound the same.. lol

Anyone?

:flamer: Not all at once! I'm a newbie :Oops:

switching to a pod will give u a louder induction sound, hks foam filters work pretty well for this. Using a shield around them, might negate this though. most people don't bother with ducting as it wont really effect intake temps/airflow a whole heap.

newbie6.jpg

(sorry, couldn't resist, your sig bought it on....)

i jus fittend an Apexi Pod on my S15.. get the induction sound as well as a lil Pshhhh lol... However with the HKS or TRUST Pods u will get a massive inductiuon sound as well as flutter- Pstttt chu chu chu... But with the mushroom filters it filters a less than the others...

Regardless of noise, check this out

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

May be of interest.

very interesting article.... *adds to bookmarks*

i find that my K&N has quite a loud induction sound for a turbo car....... its either that or my turbo is reaaaaaaaaaaaaly ****ed.... but anyways its loud ... :aroused:

good luck

Matt

  • 1 year later...
yeah, but with non-turbo, u dont get flutter!!

If i can be bothered, i'll record a sound file while sitting in car with my mp3 player

Thats because flutter is caused by the air going back into the turbo fins from the bov. Hence y u dont get flutter on atmo bovs either

i had the hks pod on my car which was loud and sounded mad, only problem was i didnt like the thin foam it had as it was being sucked in over time onto th afm ( when i had that still) so that worried me a bit and alot of guys i know have had the same...i changed it for a K&N and thats no "as" loud but louder than i thought for a K&N, plus i dont worry about the pod elements breaking off and going into the turbo

ben...

yes K&N = probably the best pod you can buy. very good filtering, long service life, good flow. having said that i must not be following my own advice as I have apexi pods on 2 of my cars (and all three I put on there).

Alot of people go with the K&N pods, and its a quality brand, there just a fair bit quieter than, mine for example. Its just a cheap branded one, DRIFT or something, but its insanely loud.. Still trying to decide if i like it or not. Oh and the K&N pods that some people choose, are just downright ugly :P

i reckon the stock air intake is as good with a panel filter when the car is making less than 300 awkws. im using a HKS one and it does make a little bit of noise.

keep myself trouble free...

Edited by frankxy
  • 2 weeks later...
were you previous cars n/a? having a turbo in the way really quietens down the induction noise compared to other cars.

I didnt know u get a loud indcution sound of an NA skyline? I always thought that it was the turbo the increased the loudness?

Edited by shorty_01

People are talking about 2 different types of induciton sound here - On most turbo cars, the induction sound people talk about is the sound of the turbo.... not really induction noise, but its on the induction side so i guess it counts.

Proper induction noise sounds awesome. Go for a ride in an NA car with multiple throttle bodies and you'll hear it for sure... The vtec honda's have a lot of induction noise for a standard car... when the cam timing changes on them, they really scream.

The only turbo car i've heard with loud induction noise was i think leroy(?)'s R33 GTR video at autosalon where it made 600rwkw or so. When they loaded it up on the dyno out of its boost threshold.. mmmmmmmmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
×
×
  • Create New...