Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nope they are not compatible. you will need to go for a piggyback (apexi safc, greddy emanage) or a remap of the stock auto ecu (nistune, dr drift remap, toshi remap)

nope they are not compatible. you will need to go for a piggyback (apexi safc, greddy emanage) or a remap of the stock auto ecu (nistune, dr drift remap, toshi remap)

i believe another option is to use the pfc but then you need an add on box for the auto and if i remember right you then have to shift the auto manually, depending on how much you want that would probably be the better way to go any way.

Hi everyone,

First of all, a huge "thank you" Paul for what you've done: great FAQ!

I have a question: I'm used to tune L-Jetro PFCs, and I'll soon have to tune my first D-Jetro. I noticed there's an extra fuel map called "base map" which seems to be tuned.

Can someone tell me what is that map for?

Oh, and BTW, is there someone here who has the default std map of a RB26DETT D-Jetro (R33)?

Thx!

i believe another option is to use the pfc but then you need an add on box for the auto and if i remember right you then have to shift the auto manually, depending on how much you want that would probably be the better way to go any way.

the problem with using a manual ecu on an auto car (ie PowerFC on auto skyline) is that when the autbox changes gears the ECU doesn't know

so the timing doesnt change during gearchange. on the auto ecu the timing is dropped during gearchange to let the auto box change gracefully.

with the manual ECU the timing stays the same and the box suffers stress from a fully loaded engine during gearchange.

now this gotcha only applies to nissan's as toyota powerfc exists in auto, at least for the chaser

the JZX100 powerfc to suit chaser comes in auto and it has lots of logic and suppport for the AT gearbox

you can even change the mapping when it changes it gears in the menus and edit the gear splits (f**ken ace).

this from my understanding is because the toyota has its gearbox logic inside the main ecu, where as nissan is in another computer

apexi either didnt care about the auto box (lets face it, auto skyline isnt common) and either couldnt be bothered, didnt see $ in it or wasnt enough demand, or too complex?

Hi everyone,

First of all, a huge "thank you" Paul for what you've done: great FAQ!

I have a question: I'm used to tune L-Jetro PFCs, and I'll soon have to tune my first D-Jetro. I noticed there's an extra fuel map called "base map" which seems to be tuned.

Can someone tell me what is that map for?

Oh, and BTW, is there someone here who has the default std map of a RB26DETT D-Jetro (R33)?

Thx!

this is from the apexi documentation

post-2054-1271392063_thumb.jpg

there is no need to find a default rb26 djetro map, as it the powerfc comes with one

if it's second hand, perform a DATA INIT before using it and the default maps are loaded. if its new it already has the default maps

Thx a lot for the information. So if I got this right, if you fill the main fuel injection table with "1", you should be able to run 14.7ish all over the map. And if not, you should proceed to minor mods in the base fuel map in order to get 14.7 afr (at least in part throttle).

And only after that step, mods to the main fuel table should begin.

Am I right?

(oh, and do you have the p24 they say to refer to?)

Edited by Jobi

you use the fuel and inj correction maps to tune the car. its only if you find you can't get the results you want or run out of correction where you adjust the base map

hi kila, you need to use the nissan boost control kit

double check on your wiring loom if you have wire #25

this is used by the apexi boost control kit

ie 25 runs to the solenoid and the other is 12v (25 is a switched ground)

without wire #25 the boost control kit will not work, so double check before purchase

and as far as i know the EL hand controller will only suit FCC3 which is new style

so it wont work on RB20 AP eng powerfc as it needs FCC1 or FCC NT

hi kila, you need to use the nissan boost control kit

double check on your wiring loom if you have wire #25

this is used by the apexi boost control kit

ie 25 runs to the solenoid and the other is 12v (25 is a switched ground)

without wire #25 the boost control kit will not work, so double check before purchase

and as far as i know the EL hand controller will only suit FCC3 which is new style

so it wont work on RB20 AP eng powerfc as it needs FCC1 or FCC NT

ok thanks i was looking at the nengun website and they have 2 diffrent nissan onces the

415-A001 and the 415-A013 i was planning to buy one this week i just didnt want to get the wrong one.l

Paul....quick question.....

your FAQ is excellent. One thing I do in every car is take the timing to 0 between about 4000 and 2000rpm for that childish poping that I love.

However, when off the throttle the injectors always drop to 0, to get things going along nicely I need to hold the throttle open a little which gets the fuel throwing again.

Do you have the same effect? and if so any suggestions other than stuffing with TPS closed position?

Paul....quick question.....

your FAQ is excellent. One thing I do in every car is take the timing to 0 between about 4000 and 2000rpm for that childish poping that I love.

However, when off the throttle the injectors always drop to 0, to get things going along nicely I need to hold the throttle open a little which gets the fuel throwing again.

Do you have the same effect? and if so any suggestions other than stuffing with TPS closed position?

unsure sorry i put my timing back to normal for a while and forgot about the 0deg idea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
×
×
  • Create New...