Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 205
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so you bought a car after pentae???

and have recieved it also??

thats gotta make pentae feel crap

:P

Na I got mine from Bris street machines. I was up there on holiday and saw it.

Guest Mashrock
mashrock: rofl.. I thought having a GTR badge already drove them nuts as it is..

haha like my car has 3 massive mufflers and you dont hear a thing when its running, so quiet you wouldnt think anything was done to it. except maybe the slightly lumpy idle.

i think this wekeend i am going out for a cruse with some of the gti-r boys. terrorising the commodore cruses. out west.... should be fun!

haha. they cant stand rice, and are very pasionate about it.

CRW_0724800websafe.jpg

show off!

either take the mesh of the front bar or make it black i say!!

would look heaps better

white GTRs dont come with while mesh wilb

hehe :)

Tis not a GTR or a GTR wannabe though. :) I just like that style of bar :)

Looks cleaner this way I think. Don't want to remove the mesh cause the cooler is harder to clean than the mesh is.

so you bought a car after pentae???

and have recieved it also??

thats gotta make pentae feel crap

:D

Absolutely! My two best mates purchased their cars after I bought mine and I have had to sit as a passenger in a twin turbo 300zx and twin turbo 2jz celsior for the last 3 weeks.. its been very painful :)

When I drive my friends car it doesnt make me feel better.. just gives me more turbo anxiety! :)

My Car:

1995 Skyline, Turbo, 105,000kms, Aqua blue with green speckles.

TRUST TD05 – 16G turbo, TRUST Front Mount Intercooler, TRUST Oil Cooler, Copper Layer Radiator, AHPI Air Filter, Q45Air Flow, APEX racing suction, Oil catch tank, HKS hyper muffler, Front and Rear Strut bar, ORC single clutch, NISMO 2way-LSD, HKS Hyper Max Adjustable Suspension, TEIN pillow tension, GT-R Front Bar, D-SPEED side skirts, IMPUL rear bumper,GT wing, APEXi Power FC, APEX Boost controller, Boost meter, Water temperature meter, Oil temperature meter, Oil pressure meter, MOMO steering wheel, BRIDE full bucket racing seat, 4point seat belt, Pioneer Carrorezia 1DIN CD/MD.

sexy fat looking 32 there. :D

Photo's would look better if the car wasn't on grass though, and if it didn't look like it had a telegraph pole growing out of it. But still damn sexy, and fat looking 32!

  • 2 weeks later...

dude! your mesh! it's pink! ;)

hehe :D

nice contrast. :D

but hey dude! its... PINK! hehe :)

Also, guys, take photo's of your cars on ashphalt or concrete. It looks MUCH better than photo's of cars when they're on grass. I mean you wouldn't take a good photo of a boat with it out of water...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...