Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

umm the gtst realistcly would do in the 16s, lets not kid our selfs

i owned a R33 GTS-T with a mad exhaust, runnin 12psi boost and it only ran into the high 15's low 16's...

a 32 is only 2.0l as well, so it would run high 16's

either your 33 was running like shat, or you cant drive.

or maybe your exhaust wasnt MAD enough.

ive seen 33's with FULLY SICK exhausts and 12 MEGA psi running 14's

I have never seen a turbo Skyline run higher than a mid 15, stock or modded.

A stock SR20 Pulsar from the early to mid '90s run 16.2. Hell, even a stock base model BA Falcon 4L auto is supposed to run 16 flat or better

.

the common misconception is a 'stock' car...

has anyone ever seen a DEAD STOCK r32 down at the drags?

...most people often call a car with just a 3" exhaust a 'stock' car

i mean stock exhaust, muffler, cat, air filter, boost, fuel... EVERYTHING

the kind of person who takes their car to the drags is the same kind of person who will modify it

i tend to think that i DEAD STOCK r32 gtst with a normal driver would run a 16...

Waz.

Well heres my 2 cents

I have an R31 Skyline with an RB30E in it and the thing was stock as they come and ran high 16's. I added extractors and exhaust and got low high 15's, low 16's. Now I don’t know where every one is getting there information that R32 Skylines stock would run 16's, but my stock R32 seems to be a hell of a lot faster then my R31 and it has been completely stock till about 2 days ago when I added a pod and all that did was make it sound good no noticeable performance. I think people should check there numbers before posting that R32's run 16's.

Just because you have an engine that’s about to die or a bigger engine then a 2.0L and your car is slow, don’t mean the majority of stock R32's are slower then you :kick:

i mean stock exhaust, muffler, cat, air filter, boost, fuel... EVERYTHING

the kind of person who takes their car to the drags is the same kind of person who will modify it

Gimme $50 and i'll go take mine out there and see how slow mine can run :rofl:.. it's auto which would make it even better. oh but its got a K&N filter so i guess it's too highly modified :)

Go on, we will pass the colleciton hat around:)

My stock R32 ran a 13.4 @ 108mph. Gtr and R33 owners call their internally std engines stock, well so am i:)

If you cant run a 15.5 in any std manual id be scratchign my head. I have been in an R32m which other then a air filter is completely std. Im betting it woudl get into the high 14s pretty easily, where is 46n2 when you need him:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...