Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone used a Willwood pedal box in their car ?

I have an R32 GTS4 with a heavy duty clutch (9 puck organic with 2500lb pressure plate).

In the time that I have had the car (roughly just over 2 years) I have been through 3 or 4 pedal boxes. Now this latest one is about to snap as well.

I'm getting that sick of it that I'm thinking of changing to a new setup ... but just don't know what.

Does anyone have any ideas?

These Willwood ones look like they might do the job.

Any help much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67284-willwood-pedal-box/
Share on other sites

you must have one insane pressure plate!! how's your left leg?

you really should have that many failures. perhaps a lighter pressure plate is in order? providing the clutch plate has a good friction surface a 10000000pound pressure plate shouldn't really be needed.

Cam - yeah mate mine's a Ross Autoclutch jobbie as well. They also apparently fixed the selector fork in my gearbox at the same time.

Richard - the pressure plate is 2500lb .... the clutch pedal is very stiff and im sure the box didnt grate as much before as it does now (ie. 3rd and 4th gears). I'm pulling the whole gearbox and associated parts out soon so I guess I'll check it out then. But still, not happy :(

Maybe I'll just buy another standard pedal box, and someone suggested a bigger master cylinder to take some of the pressure off the pedal?

Is it possible to reinforce it?

I have a fairly heavy clutch and it mangled the pedal bracket which was made of pretty much tin with a spot weld here and there.

Another one was sourced and it was heavily reinforced with some extra steel plate and a decent weld job and its been fine so far in the 2,000ks its travelled.

wilwood pedal boxes are the shizzle. I ahve ordered one for my gtr the tripple master cyclinder with reverse top mount. I want be using a booster on either the brake or clutch and for the price they are a bargain. I will probably be welding in custom mounts for it i dont know yet but i know there will have to be a fair amount of modification to get it all working!!!

Yeah I had them reinforced and they then broke in different spots. The material that those standard pedal boxes are made out of just shit !

Anyway, the last one I had was reinforced so much that it started to tear the bulkhead so I had to rip the whole dash out and get everything strengthened. It must be the worst designed thing I've ever seen!

wilwood pedal boxes are the shizzle. I ahve ordered one for my gtr the tripple master cyclinder with reverse top mount. I want be using a booster on either the brake or clutch and for the price they are a bargain. I will probably be welding in custom mounts for it i dont know yet but i know there will have to be a fair amount of modification to get it all working!!!

That sounds very interesting !

Where are you buying that from ?

So the master cylinders are in the engine bay still or underneath the dash ?

Sorry for the questions but I'm excited to hear that someone else is doing what I hoped could be done ! :wassup:

Ok I took my car to a good workshop last night

They told me that when the clutch was fitted, they used the wrong diaphragm which is putting too much pressure on my pedal, and hence ruining my pedal boxes :cheers:

Lucky I'm pulling the box out soon anyway to replace the gearbox !

I'll put a twin plate in there instead I think.

Richard - the pressure plate is 2500lb .... the clutch pedal is very stiff and im sure the box didnt grate as much before as it does now (ie. 3rd and 4th gears). I'm pulling the whole gearbox and associated parts out soon so I guess I'll check it out then. But still, not happy :cheers:

yeah, a 2500pound pressure plate seems way to high. having just read your post below good so see that the workshop has diagnosed it correctly. with a properly matched clutch plate/pressure plate combo you will have none of these pedal snapping problems.

Jim,

Interesting news about the diaphram. I take it that it's in the master cylinder? That must be the only difference as mine has done 20,000km and is still going strong. Well I hope it is as I don't want to be re-inforcing any parts of the std arrangement! :cheers:

Cam

Cam : I think the diaphragm has something to do with ... umm ... actually, I'm not sure :)

I think it's on the clutch itself though ?

TJ : Yeah I reckon ... farked !

But also in saying that, I know of two other guys with 32s in Perth that have broken pedal boxes .

I've got a GTR box for it now anyway so I'll replace the whole shabang and see how she goes!

  • 2 years later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...