Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why would you even be driving it if you thought it had blown a turbo wheel off?

They actually do still produce boost pressure with only one turbo working, it's just very low as it is leaking boost ( a lot) but because the gap where the air excapes around the blown turbo compressor wheel is so small, it can still build some pressure.

Quite often (and I know not too many people have experience with this) a blown ceramic turbo will actually kill your entire engine.

We stripped mine down and rebuilt it about 600kms after the turbo blew (and fitting 2530's) and there was no ceramic contamination of the internals what so ever.

Ive heard stories of it happening, but have only seen one person on these forums that has said and stuck by his story that it happened. Maybe we should get Myth Busters onto it? :rofl:

my car was idling really rough today and there was alot of smoke. I removed the o2 sensor where dump pipe was and noticed alot of white smoke coming out. Does this mean the turbo is dead. If this is the case, i still dont understand the rough idle. any ideas?

because most people hear a bang and take thier foot of the accelerator - first thing most people would do... so theres a chance of some bits of exaust wheel falling back into the engine?

I've been told if i ever hear a bang to keep my foot on the gas for another 5seconds to hopefully push all that shit away from inside the engine. I think it would be hard to do - keep your foot down after you hear a bang :P

myth busters.. lol .. I would have thought even if there was ceramic on the piston crowns, it wouldn't take long before it was blasted into powder anyhow.

It's probably correct though, that when you think about it, the turbo is 95% likely to blow the turbo whilst under the foot under full boost.. blowing it out the exhaust, rather than back up the intake.

RB 26 engine shave serperate exhaust manifolds for the front and rear banks of three cylinders.

Say the rear turbo goes, there is a fair amount of time when no gas is exiting the rear three cylinders. In fact, exhaust gas from the front three cylinders will help to push the ceramic pieces into the rear three chambers.

The fact that the exhaust valves are still open while the piston is on the way down also helps to suck the particles in.

myth busters.. lol .. I would have thought even if there was ceramic on the piston crowns, it wouldn't take long before it was blasted into powder anyhow.  

It's probably correct though, that when you think about it, the turbo is 95% likely to blow the turbo whilst under the foot under full boost.. blowing it out the exhaust, rather than back up the intake.

I've thought about this too, and I reckon that a turbo is most likely to blow as you lift off to shift gears. think about this, you are on full throttle, 6500rpm in 3rd, turbo is making 1.1bar boost, as you lift off, there is temporarily a restriction in front of the compressor (before the bovs react) that trys to slow down the compressor and by extension the exhaust wheel, but at this moment there is a huge amount of exhaust gas trying to still make boost.

all theory though :D

but I agree, someone should call myth busters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...