Fs: Attessa Controllers $350

[Duncan]

The nissan ATTESA computer lets you get a 32 into 2wd by:

Turning off the motor temporarily while the car is moving

Pulling the ATTESA fuse

Adding a 2wd switch (same as pulling the fuse just mroe convenient)

Using this or similar controllers.

But in all cases you have to bring the car to a full halt, return it to 4wd mode (ie replace the fuse, turn off the swtich or adjust the controller).

The only controller that would allow you to go back to 4wd mode would be a full replacement like the HKS fixed split drag controller....which is of course no good for track work, the standard variable controller is much better.

[ToF]

Sorry for the really noobish question, but does running it in 100% rear mode damage anything?

ie. Would it do any damage to run constant 2wd mode for drifting?

[Duncan]

Hey Tof, no problems at all for 32 ATTESA. The later models work slightly differently and will damage the clutch packs

[TurboX]

Will be interested in one of these soon, as it seems like a better idea than fitting Front and Back sets of different size rolling diametre tyres to set a constant percentage of AWD if on the circuit track or drag strip.

Has anyone else thought of this method and have any facts on actual rolling dia differences and the fixed torque split it gives?

Will PM when ready

[ebola]

umm... with 1 space saver on the back (slightly smaller rolling diameter), zero throttle means 10 kg plate pressure, touching the throttle at all means 50 kg plate pressure.

I presume that any wheelspin under throttle puts full torque to the front (I think a few dirt roads have helped me come to this conclusion).

Since it was absolutley pouring, I was having immense fun.

But think about what an unequal tyre radius is doing once you are moving... the smaller tyres will be applying a braking force through the transmission, or the larger ones will be spinning. Or your clutch packs will be slipping, which is a little worse than tyre wear on a track day.

On a side note, how many mA do the G-sensors output? ...wanna try my own resistor based mod first...

[Guest mark32]

umm... with 1 space saver on the back (slightly smaller rolling diameter), zero throttle means 10 kg plate pressure, touching the throttle at all means 50 kg plate pressure.

I presume that any wheelspin under throttle puts full torque to the front (I think a few dirt roads have helped me come to this conclusion).

Since it was absolutley pouring, I was having immense fun.

But think about what an unequal tyre radius is doing once you are moving... the smaller tyres will be applying a braking force through the transmission, or the larger ones will be spinning. Or your clutch packs will be slipping, which is a little worse than tyre wear on a track day.

On a side note, how many mA do the G-sensors output? ...wanna try my own resistor based mod first...

I cant recall how much current they output in operation but whatever you make up it is always good practice to design something that will pull as least amount of current as possible as too much will either damage or cause the G sensor to give a false reading. The PIC chip in this device draws <2mA, the ATESSA computer only looks at the voltage of the G sensors to work out what it should output. The workable voltage swing of the G sensor is between 1-4 volts

[godzl1975]

can anyone tell me what the wires on the controller have to be linked up too in the radio controls on r32 GTR as part of my info in manual was missing...thanks need asap aaron

[Duncan]

PM sent with details Aaron, give me a call if there are any problems

[Savman]

Installation easy, and didn't take long. I suggest putting the LED thought the dash lights. Got my LED going though the ABS warning light and no one would know it's there and warning light is still working, just took a little trim off the light plug. Be carful not to squash the wires if doing this way.

Taken it for a little test but can't say much because clutch is gone/going. Could hardly get it up the rams yesterday ready to drop the gearbox.

[Duncan]

Good trick I'm glad install went smoothly....but soudns like you aren't going to enjoy it properly until you can put some power down without the clutch slipping

[amosite]

Hi Duncan,

Did the funds clear yet? Any idea when you can ship it off?

[Duncan]

sure did, thanks I'll get the controller this weekend and ship it on Monday

[GTR1357]

The nissan ATTESA computer lets you get a 32 into 2wd by:

Turning off the motor temporarily while the car is moving

Pulling the ATTESA fuse

Adding a 2wd switch (same as pulling the fuse just mroe convenient)

Using this or similar controllers.

But in all cases you have to bring the car to a full halt, return it to 4wd mode (ie replace the fuse, turn off the swtich or adjust the controller).

The only controller that would allow you to go back to 4wd mode would be a full replacement like the HKS fixed split drag controller....which is of course no good for track work, the standard variable controller is much better.

OK, I know it is fine to run an R32 GTR in RWD but is it definitely safe to run an R32 GTS4 in RWD mode too???

[Duncan]

yep all the 32 model series work the same way

[Cro_boy_Mario]

reading through this thread

i have a few questions

would i be able to use this model.....on my r33 gts4 for warming up the rear tyres (burnouts)???

would this damage anything in my 4wd system running it on rwd for burnouts only???

and when switching back to 4wd will it be back to normal???

thanks

[Duncan]

Hi mate, all 33 and later cars have at least some fwd at all times due to differences in the ATESSA pump. As a result you will have increased wear on the transfer case clutch packs.

Can you do a burnout or 3? probably.....but I wouldn't do it to my transfer case.....

BTW this is an issue for all controllers and 2wd modes that use the standard ATTESA system. There may be some like the HKS drag adapter that replace the standard computer that do work OK for rwd only in 33 and later. THere is no problem with running 32s in RWD mode with the controller.

This is primarily for improving handling on a street/circuit, it is of limited use for drags.

[Cro_boy_Mario]

Hi mate, all 33 and later cars have at least some fwd at all times due to differences in the ATESSA pump. As a result you will have increased wear on the transfer case clutch packs.

Can you do a burnout or 3? probably.....but I wouldn't do it to my transfer case.....

BTW this is an issue for all controllers and 2wd modes that use the standard ATTESA system. There may be some like the HKS drag adapter that replace the standard computer that do work OK for rwd only in 33 and later. THere is no problem with running 32s in RWD mode with the controller.

This is primarily for improving handling on a street/circuit, it is of limited use for drags.

hey thanks for that, much appreciated.......i will look into the hks system

BTW do u kno what it is called by any chance?

Edited August 14, 2006 by Cro_boy_Mario

[Duncan]

Sorry everyone I can't get hold of these at the moment, post up here if you are interested I'll put together a list when more are available.

[Bass Junky]

I have a question.

R34 GTR N1

What I want to be able to do it press a little button when I want to induce oversteer, ie minimum front torque.

So, coming up to a witches hat, grab handbrake, press little button, minimum front torque until finger comes off button. This allows the back end to come around a little bit more and reduces the understeer that sometimes effects the GTR on slippery surfaces on cars with big power.

That function would be excellent.

Maybe even and full torque, mininum torque buttons. Motorkhana specials!

BASS OUT

[Duncan]

Hey pete....interesting idea, I'll pass it on to the guy who makes them. I think the lack of stock atm is due to no chips being available so it might be a good opportunity

3 expressions of interest received at the moment.