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Engine Electrical Connectors where?

lukevl

By lukevl,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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browny Proficient

browny

Posted
Posted

There is zero chance of finding the connectors at any regular electronics place (Dick Smith/Jaycar etc).

A suitably large and interested auto electrical wholesaler might be able to help but your chances are slim.

I'd either buy a 2nd hand loom, ring Nissan or start calling people who do specialist ECU type wiring (eg ECU installers). Castle Auto Electrics in Vic is one place I can think of off the top of my head who do a lot of conversion wiring and claim to use the factory plugs.

Also, the proper terminating tools are likely to be hidously expensive and therefore cost prohibitive for someone who only wants to do a little bit of DIY wiring.

If you find anything out, keep me updated 'cos I've never managed to get far with this type of enquiry. I'd love to be able to modify my own wiring and still keep it nice and neat and factory looking and free of solder.

blackrb20silvia Community Regular

blackrb20silvia

Posted
Posted
There is zero chance of finding the connectors at any regular electronics place (Dick Smith/Jaycar etc).  

A suitably large and interested auto electrical wholesaler might be able to help but your chances are slim.

I'd either buy a 2nd hand loom, ring Nissan or start calling people who do specialist ECU type wiring (eg ECU installers). Castle Auto Electrics in Vic is one place I can think of off the top of my head who do a lot of conversion wiring and claim to use the factory plugs.

Also, the proper terminating tools are likely to be hidously expensive and therefore cost prohibitive for someone who only wants to do a little bit of DIY wiring.

If you find anything out, keep me updated 'cos I've never managed to get far with this type of enquiry. I'd love to be able to modify my own wiring and still keep it nice and neat and factory looking and free of solder.

no relation the question lukevl

but browny that is a great post full off all the info you need not just a post like

"just do this or just do that" its good to see people actually helping others not just throwing in there 2c

sorry ill stop bitching now :box::D

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

You could try a you pick it wrecker and comb every EFI Nissan in the joint . Be prepared to have a bastard of a time getting the spade connectors out of the plastic fittings . You can buy very expensive dedicated tools from Snap On , Wurth or Blue Point , or simpy hammer flat the end of a piece of MIG wire which is fine and very stiff . You can replace factory fittings with alternate OEM EFI stuff just remember to join the correct wires !

I though of another alternative , the Haltech (EFI Technology) people use GM style automotive weather proof connectors for their looms and will sell separatly or at least those in Taren Pt Sydney do .

Hope this helps , cheers A .

browny Proficient

browny

Posted
Posted

Actually, if you work out how the terminals are locked in, it's usually quite easy to get them out. Most of the Nissan connectors i've seen use some sort of little locking tab (in some cases two) that fits into a recess in the terminal. A fine scribe or a spare terminal is good for releasing these tabs. The MIG wire suggestion sounds like a great idea too!

Is the GM style stuff that you are referring to the "weatherpak" connectors? I've used them and they are ok, but IMO aren't anywhere near as nice a design or as well made as the OEM Nissan stuff. Also, the weatherpak stuff that is readily available seem to be connectors only - not replacement plugs to connect to OEM sensors etc.

It's relatively cheap and easy to get good condition used connector housings from old looms, but this leaves you with the problem of how to terminate your wiring. I'm not a fan of soldering anywhere in an auto loom so the ultimate thing would be to find a source of OEM terminals and crimp tooling ($$$) and then you could make your own OEM quality looms. The next best alternative is to splice/extend/shorten wiring by soldering, heatshrinking and then carefully wrapping and supporting to ensure the join won't break through fatigue.

Also, finding the range on wire colours to match that of the factory could be difficult.

So at the end of the day, if you are using OEM sensors and management, its probably easier to just get an OEM loom and modify (by soldering) little bits here and there to suit your particular application (what i've had to do).

If your using aftermarket management you could just offload it all onto whoever is providing the management and let them work it out!

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Now you've really got me curious , what is your aversion to properly soldered joints ? My preference is to use non insulated terminals that are mechanically wrapped around the wires insulation and the wings closest to the spade end soldered to ensure a gunge proof joint , this is then insulated with shrinkwrap . My tame guru's both came from the rally world so 100+ km/h through creek crossings needs serious long term electrical reliability . Soldered joints take longer and cost more but they usually stand up to hostile environments better IMO . The hineous crimp (pimp) connector is a bean counters rather than a engineers preference I feel . I've had many tell me that aircraft are flying around with pimp joint looms so I'll stick to cars trucks and locomotives , these roll to a stand when they cough and die .............

I'm not here to flame anyone , just like to know the opinions of others .

Have a good weekend cheers A .

browny Proficient

browny

Posted
Posted

By "crimp connector" I am referring to an oem style crimp termination where the terminal crimps onto both the wire and the insulation. The reason I like this type of termination is because the crimp onto the insulation gives the joint good mechanical strength. I've never seen one of these joints fail (but then again I haven't really looked at that much wiring, i'm interested in others experiences).

I really don't see the need to solder one of the above joints, but as long as you don't get too much heat into the terminal and soften the insulation, it might be good insurance in hostile environments like you are talking about.

BTW I'm not referring to the cheapie "squash it flat" type spade crimp terminal - These are the worst of the worst.

The reason I generally don't like soldered joints is because they tend to make the wire brittle if you get too much heat into the joint (easy on fine gauge stuff). And if there isn't any mechanical connection onto the wire then this is a failure waiting to happen.

Splicing/shortening/lengthening wiring is a bit different. It's not that bad to solder and carefully wrap the joint up, however my preference would be to run a whole new section of wiring from terminal to terminal because this doesn't introduce any extra joins where the wiring could potentially fail.

lukevl Collaborator

lukevl

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replys. i am using a Motec but I need something to plug into the CAS, TPS, ignitor, coils etc. I just don't want to use the old plastic plugs from a wrecker who wouldn't let me cut them off anyway. My understanding is that Nissan only sells looms not plugs.

drunkenmaster Community Regular

drunkenmaster

Posted
Posted

Solder is not used due to lead content and longer process time.

Regular hand crimp tools from any electronics shop will do along with a touch of solder to make up for the weaker hand force compared to machine force.

All connectors I can think of use plastic locking tabs, some more than one. The only tool you "need" is a long pin to unlock the tab and pull the terminal out using the wire from the rear. Some connectors will have retaining clips on the side of the housing which you will need to pry open first.

Nissan themselves dont make the connectors but may sell them marked up as P&A, it will likely be tyco, or possibly sumitomo or yazaki who supplies them. Tyco have a relatively useful website where you can search, but due to the shear amount of automotive connectors it will be tough. I am also not sure if they sell retail. Petroject or similar EFI stores have already done the homework for you and would be the easiest but you will pay their margin. There is nothing wrong with cutting up a used loom.

  • 6 years later...
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/333222-engine-loom-connector-shells-and-replacement-terminals/page__p__5672404__hl__plug__fromsearch__1#entry5672404

and call the guy on this thread.

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