Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was wondering what I have to do to get my car out of the docks. It arrived on saturday so hopefully it clears customs by the end of the week. My importer said that they would organise to have my car delivered where ever I want but I want to know if any of you have gone and picked up the car yourselfs.

One option is to get the car myself if I get temp reg.. How long does it take once I get there to actually drive away with the car.

Or the other option is to try and get Jack to pick it up if he is isn't booked up so my front lip doesn't get trashed. Does anybody have his ph no?

Can't wait to get it out on the track for a thrash!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69981-getting-my-car-out-of-the-docks/
Share on other sites

I went through this last year with mine mate. I dont think you are actually allowed to the docks unless the procedure is different for RORO (mine was in a container). I had to have a clearance company take it to quarantine before I was allowed near it. I did stipulate that I was to open the container though.

I had it trailored to a compliance shop and then sorted a temp reg for it so I could drive it between places of compliance.

Probably not much help!

I also have the number of a guy who flat bedded mine. He was $70 anywhere in Melbourne.

I drove my GTR home from the Patrick's Terminal just near the West Gate bridge. There are a few things to be aware of:

- they won't let you into the area unless you have all the correct paperwork (clearances from your Customs broker).

- you can't drive into the area. They have a mini-bus that picks you up at the main gate and delivers you to the car storage area. It's not actually too far BUT if your car needs work (eg flat battery like in my case) then you have to carry tools, etc to the car and that can be a pain.

- if your sure your car will start and be OK to drive, then it's a relatively simple process (arrive at main gate; sign paperwork/hand over drivers licence; get bused to car; drive car back to main gate; get licence back; drive home :))

- Make sure you arrange an unreg vehcle permit from Vicroads. Costs around $40 for a week or around $60 for 28 days. Make sure you display the permit on the windscreen or dash before taking the car on the road.

It all comes down to whether you think the car will start/drive OK on the day. If it's been in storage for awhile in Japan, chances are high the battery will be flat.

I went down to pick mine up straight from the docks/transport depot - all I needed was the import approval form and my shipping consignment note and I drove away. Mine was also sitting in the yard and I rang and they said it would take 4-5 days for delivery, I'm like... it's only 30k's away... see you in 45min.

Gareth - be more than happy to tow your car from the docks, my no. is 0419877437..

When you go down to Patrick's make sure you have:

- Delivery order/ Shipping consignment note

- Import approval

- Quarantine release (if it passes quarantine then you can tow it home, if it doesn't then it gets towed to somewhere to get it steam cleaned/ remove quarantine risk material...)

Make sure you have this paperwork otherwise you'll be going there for nothing!!! They're really strict and pricks about it if you don't have the required paperwork...

By the way what car is it???

Hey hey Rowdy, very nice, it's here! :P

Hopefully it'll be somewhere i can have a squiz at it when I'm back in Melb over Anzac long weekend.

Now that i think about it, you got your GTST when i was living in Adelaide last, maybe i should skip back over here more often. Who knows what you'll get next time? :(

I want to get the car to my house first so I can swap over the wheels and a few other parts so I can clean them up whilst it is being engineered. Its just an 89 gtr with hks forged pistons and either r33 or 34 N1 turbos. Hopefully its a good street/ track package.

Thanks for your input guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...