Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine (the ones I'm about to put in) are the Super Sports or some such. highly recomended by the workshop i bought them at in japan. they are only rated to 580degree from memory, but should work from cold. he said these are good street and short race pads. little dust, no squeal and will still work well on the track. the coefficient of friction is 0.43 which is pretty good for a road pad. I was going to try one of the mu's or maybe the endless CC-X but he advised against it saying they would be very noisy and dusty and be a bitch for a car that is mostly street driven.

It was my first time at wakefield on sunday managed a 1:15.595 with street tryes and sbs brake pads and dba rotors.

Which were able to be pushed really hard fo 10-15 minutes before I got some fade at the kink near the end of the main straight in last session and spun it through the dirt and ended up back on to the track.

They have also put the times up from the UAS day, you can check them out at

http://www.nismo.com.au/Events/wakefield01...field010505.htm

it seems that (street) GTRs struggle to put down good times at wakefield. seems like a GTST is a better car around this type of tight track with short straight. GTR maybe too heavy for good wakefield times??

be interesting to see what I can must in the GTR there. having done ok in the GTI-R i will be curious to see how the GTR likes it.

Both Abo + Reedy, 1.15 is a pretty respectable time around there.

I reckon Ultimates are great for a 33 gtst I used them for about a million track days and never had fade problems. I did get through 2 sets of rotors in 3 years tho.

For the race car we have used both SBS and Hawk pads and have been very happy with both....but they are no good for a street car coz they don't work from cold.

We really should have a big track/open practice day down there again some time :P

Reedy what street tyres where you using.. because when I put my foot down my rear end just broke loose!

I was using yokohama V102's but still had same problem when I put my foot down in second gear, by then end of the day I was finding it better to leave it in third gear and go through the corner at a higher speed and try to accelerate earlier and it wouldn't kick kick out.

We really should have a big track/open practice day down there again some time!

I've been thinking the same thing there a couple track days every week there for $80 should organise a group.

hey guys my car went round in 1:14.... with my cuz driving, it goes to show that an experienced race driver makes a diff i ran a 1:19....

also a good suspension set-up makes a huge diff, in the dry a good handling car is fun!!!!

Well im heading down on Monday 30th May (or Monday 23rd May, have to see with work)

Last time there with cat back exhaust, filter & IC and road rubber with Whiteline kit the best i could muster is a 1:13.4.

Im so hoping with the new turbo and semi slicks that i can get into the high 1:10s. If i crack a 1:09.99 you will hear me cheering in Perth:) (i highly doubt it, will need more susp work i think.;))

Anyone else interested in coming down?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...