Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any of the high end Yokohamas. Myself and two other mates use nothing but. They run ES100s, and I run the C.Drives.

I also previously ran the A539s... All are very good in the dry, and also pretty damn good in the wet.

i got a set of 245/40/r18 Falken ZE326 and must say they are pretty f**ken useless in the wet i feel like im seriously skating on ice when i drive in the wet (complete granny driving aswell) how ever in dry they do the job well enough :)

-Ruffels

I have toyo T1S (255/40/17) on the rear (replaced by the T1R) and Maxxis MA-Z1 on the front (235/45/17). The Maxxis are sensational, especially conisdering the price. Great in the wet and pretty good in the dry. The Toyo has almost an identical tread pattern and seems to exhibit similar charateristics. Probably dopnt grip as well in the dry as i would like. But thats no to much of a worry.

The thing about the Maxxis is that they dont come in a 255 width at the moment. No idea on wear rates yet. But the maxxis on the front have done 2 motor challenge days and are holding up well.

Hey Missinglink,m

Where did you get your Maxxis from?

So far I've only found Bob Jane stocks them and the guy I spoke to (Grant from Reynella, SA) said they only had MA-V1 and quoted me prices for these. He said the MA-Z1 were available but in limited sizes in Australia and he wasn't able to quote me any prices on these.

There was a set of [new] Kelly Chargers on my GTSt when I got it, just been complied.

Tread looked OK, compound felt OK. I only put up with them for less than 1000k.  If you ever come across a tyre dealer giving them away for free - Don't take them,unless you have a death wish  { I sold them to a bloke with a Commodore.}

i agree they are the worst tyre i have ever driven on

if any people here think a ziex 326 is bad, i challenge you to try driving with kelly chargers, they redefine 'no grip'

326's are like semi slicks when compared to chargers, they ARE that bad.

wet and dry rating -100/10

My favourites on both Skylines and RX7s are Falken FK451s and Kumho Ecstas. Both are excellent in wet and dry. I've also got a set of F1s on a Skyline as well - and although I'm happy with the performance I think they're overpriced compared with the Falkens and Kumhos. They certainly don't perform better.

Sizes 235/45r17 front 255/40r17 rear. Power not too sure but last time the Skyline GTSt was on the RR it was 250hp at the wheels. Add to that 75hp nitrous and 10% toluene in the fuel should make that higher and I've had no issues.

i agree they are the worst tyre i have ever driven on

if any people here think a ziex 326 is bad, i challenge you to try driving with kelly chargers, they redefine 'no grip'

326's are like semi slicks when compared to chargers, they ARE that bad.

wet and dry rating -100/10

:wassup: My goodness they must be bloody awful to be worse than ziex 326. Where are they made?

I know that some of you have tried fedrals i have some on the rear of my 33 GTST there 18/265/35 and i think that they are not bad i have 216rwkw so it not really stock but even with out the camber kit they hook up really well dry that is i havent had them in the wet yet, and i run way to much neg camber so after the camber kit they should be reall good

Hi guys

Can anyone tell me more about the Hankook K104 ($165) ????

Also about the difference in performance between Toyo TPG ($180) and Proxes T1R ($295).

I'm due for a tyre change and the above are looking like good value for money options. size required 235/45/r17

Thanks

Sumitomo HTRZ II

Dry: 2/10

Wet: 9/10

Value for money: 3/10

Size: 255/40/17inch.

These tyres in the dry are shocking for traction. but in the wet the are the other way around.

The actually spin easier in the dry then what they do in the wet ???

Not the best tyre for handling, But would be good for drift. Is also a good tyre for high speed. from my experience.

Although the cost is fairly expensive, around $400 - 450 per tyre if I remember correctly.

  • 2 weeks later...

Dunlop Sport 2000

Dry: 4

Wet: 4

Value: 4

OEM tyres for my last car. Typical OEM tyre: quiet and reasonable in wet and dry, cold and warm. Not much of a sports tyre, though.

Silverstone Something, who cares

Dry: 4

Wet: 3

Value: 3

Silverstone make some of the crappiest tyres on the planet. Every person I know who's used them has hated them; no grip and wear quickly

Pirelli P5000 Drago

Dry: 5

Wet: 6

Value: 6

These are a good wet weather tyre. Two big centre channels and directional tread. I found myself doing Old Pac in the wet only 5-10km/hr slower than in the dry. Even though I had them for longer than the Silverstones, when I had to swap 2 out due to puncture the Pirellis still lasted longer than the Silverstones I replaced them with.

Falken Azenis RT215

Dry: 7

Wet: 4

Value: 5

Everyone knows about these tyres. Didn't last long, but I could hammer my car and the thing would just stick. In the wet you noticed the lack of tread blocks, but in the dry I was finding myself taking corners flat that I'd normally have to lift on. Shame about the tyre life.

Bridgestone Potenza RE040

Dry: 5

Wet: 5

Value: 5

OEM tyres on my current ride. Great OEM sports tyre. Progressive, and with a reasonable amount of grip even when cold. They also do OK in the wet. The only problem is they can't handle heat. The first time I took them to the track, I baked them and they didn't grip properly cold after that. I'd get a fair amount of slip until I got heat into them.

Falken Azenis RS-V04

Dry: 8

Wet: 2

Value: 4

Ignore what some people tell you, Formula R semi slicks are not daily drivable. They were noisy as hell, and only by babying them did I get 8000kms out of them. I'd average one oversteer moment per drive in the wet, and they'd pick up stones and either embed them into the rubber or flick them up onto cars behind you.

But, in the dry and in anger, a Formula R tyre redefines what you think your car can do around a bend. I had a couple of situations where I went into a corner too hot and I thought I'd slide out; on these tyres the car just did what it was told. And, on the track, they'll do it lap after lap.

Definite "second set of rims" rubber. There are better Formula R tyres out there, but not for the pittance I paid for them.

Dunlop Direzza DZ101s

Dry: 6

Wet: 8

Value: 7

Current tyres. In the dry they provide good grip (at least as good as the RE040s, if not better) and in the wet they're phenominal. I can't believe how much grip I can get, even in standing water, and even when they let go its progressive and its easy to bring them back on line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
    • Mine's a bit bigger at 70x150mm roughly. The spots are flat, just can feel the edges if I dig my nail into it. I did fix some other other ones by both using my finger to sand that small spot (I'm a bit wary of doing this and creating hot spots and a bigger mess) and I also did sand over it flat and others, but this also worried me a bit because if I create an overall low spot on the panel on paint that is good.  Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as it's flat even if I can feel the edges, I can put filler because it will all be level once I sand it? I can see myself going in a circle after sanding guidecoat with 320 grit if for example the panel is flat with my hand but because I sanded the guidecoat I could have created a low spot again somewhere. Unless where I'm going wrong is what I mentioned previously where I didn't go low enough on the grits. It's 1 step forward and 2 step backwards here haha. I'll probably need to experiment with it more. Last time I go back to bare metal lol.
×
×
  • Create New...