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Can't keep the stock solenoid? Is this because its suppose to be running in series with the wastegate? How come bleedvalves can still use the stock solenoid though? Is it becuase they are running parallel?

So confusing lol. Thanks again haha.

Andy

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yeh,i got the other bleed valve off u CEFF1E,

i cant really see a difference in the two.

yeh ur 1 worked, i been runnin 14psi on my std turbo for over 1 week now:)

n i didnt connect anything back to the bov.

ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

I've had this before. Only assuming, but - Sounds like the bleed valve is on the same pressure line as the BOV. The bleed valve will backflow and let presure in instead of bleeding when the throttle shuts and that means that there isn't a vacuum behind the BOV, so it wont open. Then the turbo surges.

Thats why I'm getting one of these...

My idle was higher, due to air backflowing through a bleed valve. Then I noticed that the BOV would not blow off when I increased boost.

So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

I'm having a few issues with boost control also and for ~$30 I'm willing to give this a go even if it doesnt work.

I noticed someone mention they received a blue one as opposed to the red ones pictured. What other colours are avilable? If possible I would prefer a black one.

So let me get this straight.

A bleed valve and this cool valve go in the same position.

A bleed valve lets air out thus reducing the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which in turns increases boost by delaying the opening of the wastegate until desired boost is hit.

This valve blocks the pressure completely from the wastegate thus increasing boost until the set pressure is met, the valve opens, and the wastegate opens as normal.

In other words, this cool valve will increase boost faster as rather than reducing pressure to the wastegate gradually, it blocks the pressure completely until the desired boost is hit when it then lets all pressure through opening the gate and holding the boost.

Comprende?

i had a dog and his name was BINGO!

I guys

Thanks a heap for your interest in the turbotech boost controller.

I have now received orders for 30 and have already sent out 19 of them.

As all good things come to an end, the $28 price is unstainable with the cost and time involved.

I will of course continue to look after skyliners with a revised cost of $35 express delivered. Which is far less than I charge on ebay.

Pretty cheap for a F%^$ing great boost controller!!

Thanks gain

Mark

p.s keep those pics scoming its a blast to see them :headspin:

Hi guys,

please excuse me but I'm a little lost... I have a 33 gtst and have looked at my setup (stock solenoid) but don't fully understand where to put this.

Can someone post a pick of an R33 install... am I fitting it in place of the solenoid? ie, just remove the hoses from the solenoid and put them on the valve, if I remove the solenoid from the picture altogether, I'm left with three hoses. Which two do I use?

Sorry if someone has already made it clear, my eyes must be blurry

Received my boost controller today and have installed it. Um what can i say but OMFG are you serious. Got mine for $28 but now gone up to $35. Guys this is penuts. This is the best controller iv'e come across. I previously had a GFB bleed (rubbish) value and this unit simply replaces it in the same position as previously stated. I now have it set at 12psi and upon testing it, it did NOT spike at all and did NOT drop of at the top end where the GFB valve would spike and go from 15psi and drop of to 10psi. What a bargin for such a good product. Congratulations Mark and thankyou.

Get that patent happeneing.  

 

Edit: Bummer, looks like you can't get patents if you have already sold the product. :P

 

http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1097642.htm

m sure you could work something out, maybe "CHANGE" wink, wink, nudge, nudge the design then patent that one instead??? :headspin:

I would like to add myself to the list of satisfied customers. I bought this valve about three weeks ago after reading the first post. This is definately the best $32.50 i have spent on my car, instant boost and no spiking!!!! :headspin:

I spent my weekend finetuning the boost and now i can fang with peace of mind

:wassup:

Yep i agree mark. you should patent these. if this is just one forum for one model of car and you have sold like 30 of them to us. Imagne if you distributed this on every car forum around the world.

Hehe guys the ball and spring design isn't something new, it's been around for a while. :rofl:

Still a great controller thought, mine is going fantastic, no spiking, constant boost that builds fast.

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