Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's got to be the cleanest 90 GTR I've ever seen. Nice buy.

On the importer issue that's been raised -

I tried to import my Chaser directly using a buyer in Japan and after 4 months (when I got my deposit back) I still had not even put 1 bid down on a car. To me, the big problem with going straight to a buyeris that you only have the choice from their local auction. In my case, the buyer couldn't find 1 suitable car to send me. I received about 4 emails in the 4 months with cars I could bid on, and each one was either too modified, the wrong spec, or the wrong car totally. By the end I had dropped my requested options and paint colour, so I was simply after any stock car he could get his hands on. I think he was just sending them to me because that was all he had access to and felt he had to send me *something*.

If you go through people like Imports 101, Prestige or JSpec you've got pretty much all of Japan to choose your car from. This means you can be picky about the car you get. That's worth the fee to me.

BTW with 101 I had bought a car in 3 weeks.

Thanks for all the positive comments guys :)

Had the car a few days now, had a bit of a chance to check it over, and have put about 200kms on it so far with my 48hr Temp driving permit :)

IMPRESSIONS SO FAR

BODYWORK: Definate respray, but looks all the better for it, whoever done it has done a very professional job. Car is Arrow straight bar 3 tiny dings and 1 paint chip on edge of drivers door, evidence of sanding size of palm around skyline badge on bonnet....again hard to notice, but I notice it all the time now! inside all doors and boot is same deep shine as exterior.

MOTOR: Clock say 66'800, I have no reason to doubt it, but dont get excited by it, as 66800ks around Tokyo is equivilent to 100000+ around Perth ;) Idles a little high 1000rpm, was slight off beat thrum at idle, but seems to have cleared up, otherwise revs very smooth, no smoke. Standard boost and only cat back exhaust means acceleration is 'leasurely' boost comes on very smooth, and geez do they rev!...far cry from my RB30ET!....off boost they feel similar in driveablity to aussie NA RB30 R31s which aint to bad.

HANDLING: This is the highlight for me, what a revelation from my old R31 (even though that had Konis, kings, and whiteline fitted) this thing just grips like sh*t to a blanket, NO Body roll, turn in is phenominal, the faster I pushed it, the harder I turned in, it just kept pulling it off, and with apparent ease...can't wait to put this thing in a few competive events....Should be able to take it up to the WRX and EVO boys now! ;)

Does still feel like RWD car however and does slide feels great keep boot in and it still pulls you out fine.

Different story in the wet however, still slides around heaps....well more than I would have expected, could be due to Mega stiff suspension, and previously overinflated tyres that are close to bald in the middle!...still was lotta fun ;)

Heres a few more pics:

home11.jpg

Interior...MP3 Player, and MOMO Gearknob...Matching wheel yet to be fitted.

home12.jpg

Rides like a go kart...can't be standard surely...? Called Potenza's I think.

home13.jpg

CD Stacker not stolen, even had 6 Jap CDs inside!, full tool kit, all trim etc intact, and shiny :D

home14.jpg

Underneath, Rear sway bar is new(ish), Cat back exhaust only, car vey quiet.

home15.jpg

Mysterious little box....any ideas..?

home16.jpg

Will be coming to see you once shes complied Ken :)

Oh yeah, and the Hicas light comes on from time to time.

And the car 'tramlines' quite badly....ie will follow any imperfections in the road surface.....Normal..? or Bad wheel alignment?

very nice ride there, specially for the price....under $20k is awesome

Factory idle is 950 rpm.

Looks neat.

Have fun with it. :P

Cheers

Ken

not to correct a legend, but I have been "reading the manual" and it says that the factory rpm is 900, and 950 when the air con is on?!.... :Oops:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...