Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you guys are talking about 2 different things, obviously because the size of your wallets are significantly different.

Those who ONLY currently have a skyline as their only car contemplate leaving it at home so they wont have to worry abt it getting dinged or damaged or piling on the ks, more significantly so because they want to keep it in tip top condition.

For those with much larger wallets and extra cars at home, the skyline IS their daily, its the car they dont mind getting dinged, bashed up, or piling on the ks cos this is their daily.

Its the same like some rich saudi oil tycoons who drive 360s as their daily driver...they dont care if it gets beat up or so...

ITs all abt the size of the wallet

I have a 240rwkw R33. I have a 1990 Ford Laser which I gave to my brother which he doesn't have his license yet. I use the Laser if my R33 is in the shop but I absolutely hate driving it around town and anywhere in fact when I could be driving the Skyline.

The Skyline is my daily driver and weekend joyrider. I didn't just spend $10k on mods for it to be driven 100-200km on the weekend.

I enjoy being in my Skyline so I drive it wherever I can :( I know sometimes you take risks with parking etc. but it's worth it when I get to jump in and drive off.

I actually look forward to driving home from work each arvo because I get to drive the Skyline. With the Laser, I never got that satisfaction. If I was to buy a daily shitter though I'd prob get an AE82, at least then I get some fun.

You guys have it all wrong (except for Dundan)...

Get a *NICE* daily driver. That's what you're going to be spending 95% of the time driving around in. This is what you're going to be driving around in all the time, why the hell would you subject yourself to driving a $1000 sh1tter everyday just because you're too scared to drive your skyline in case it gets hurt?!?! What's the point in that? You've got it all back-to-front :Oops:

After you have a NICE daily driver, go buy yourself a weekend/track car... Something that you wouldn't cry like a little baby over because someone dinged the door at the local shopping centre, or that you blow up at the next trackday. After-all, you only use it for fun and games, so who cares if you fix it when it blows up?

I don't know about you guys, but there's no way in hell I'm doing 20-30,000kms a year in a sh1tbox. I want to ENJOY those kms, and not drive around in a deathtrap torture chamber just so my "nice" car doesn't get hurt.......... or driven :uhh:

disclaimer: of course this doesn't apply to those people who can afford a Mercedes CLK55 daily driver AND an R34 GTR track car :(

traitor

go and take a warm blade to the lower half of your neck

but yes, r31 is the best car in the world. series 1/2 with left taillights that retain 3 litres of water, door knobs that fall off, and wanky young drivers

go and take a warm blade to the lower half of your neck

mark you are a violent young man. you need to come out tonight and relax. I will even let you do a burnout in the GTR if you behave.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...