Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Street car.....my 2 yen......either

1/ something that could pass an RTA inspection station

or

2/ something with number plates bolted on. Anything in between is an artificial distinction :D

Keir wilson Has two R32's; one street registered which runs 9s and one which is only for race which runs 8s. He brought both to WA recently for drag combat. RH9 is his road driven car. Neither have a light dusting of mods and for that kind of power output its pretty easy to tell both his RB26s are full house motors.

  • 2 weeks later...

the motor is fairly standard

-standard OS giken RB30 bottom end

-standard RB26DETT head and valves

-standard throttle bodies

The turbos are "standard" T67.

The body and chassis is pretty much stock and only a wheel alignment away from circuit racing.

Other mods are......well I am not allows to say :rofl:

May be there is a misinterpretation some where between the oz slangs and the yanks' vocabs. May be this will pass most defect stations in the US or even their CA smog test :(. May be any drag car that still has manual shifting is streetable in the US. Who know?

The race car, imho, is a beast that can only be unleashed on a well prep track and Keir is probably the only few people in this world that can tame this beast.

IMO Street Car = Something you would be happy to drive on a public road in traffic

Otherwise people will argue that a squillionty horsepower V8 with 1000 rpm power band at 9000RPM is a 'street car' because they found the right engineer to certify it and the right rego checker.

Eg. Rod Hadfields Merlin powered Chev has enough registration so that he can drive it on a public road, that doesn't mean I consider it a street car however.

This also covers all the show pony Street Machine stuff that they call "street cars", even though they are trailored everywhere because the owner is so shit scared of stonechips, dust etc.

  • 4 months later...

i think their idea of standard is that it isn't modified once it's bolted onto the car :P

americans + imports + respect = non-existant

Not since they stuck neons and chrome spinners and shit on them, and purge systems galore (no offence 2rismo ;), but you gotta admitt they take it too far), but they take wank to the extreme.

the motor is fairly standard

-standard OS giken RB30 bottom end

...

Yep,as OS Giken RB30 kit are pretty standard...on huge dollar engine builds. What was the last price anyone has on one of these kits? I'm pretty sure they're not $1099 at Autobarn...

I agree Keir's cars,and John Munro's and even Theo W's cars,are at least closely related to the cars we drive,with the possible exception of HUGE amounts of development hours("free labour" or not;someone is paying somewhere for all that R & D),oh,and a small bank heist job on each car's complete set up. Anyone that says you can strap a STRONG RB26DETT(even without budgeting in an OS G. kit)and just slap it into a standard car and rip off a 9 or an 8 is beyond dreaming. I began reading about the development of these cars several years ago;and K's and J's cars were already running respectable time then:development was already underway. So,I'd assume that each car doesn't sit for months at a time doing nothing,then the covers get pulled off and they run a faster time. Whatever is done in between passes costs money,and it's not lunch money...

People:where's the hard facts on these U.S. and U.K. cars that are running such times? I think we'll all find it will go from "relatively standard car runs a 9" to "oh,a fully researched and prepped and funded car rolls out a 9". DoughBoy,you started this(LOL)-time to 'fess up.Do you really think all they did was:"1/ Add turbos and a couple of other bolt ons

2/ Remove carpet + add cage

3/ Fit up Nittos (a must!) "?!?

For what its worth, a Skyline in the UK did a high 8 run last week I believe although I cant remember any details. Will see what I can find out in the morning.

Keith Cowie ran a 9.38 in the UK last week, are you sure that's not what you're thinking of?

Ah,Keith's car:another "cheapie" just slapped together to run 9's...NOT! A very big dollar,tough car- http://www.totb.co.uk/movies/

  • 3 weeks later...
DoughBoy,you started this(LOL)-time to 'fess up.Do you really think all they did was:"1/ Add turbos and a couple of other bolt ons

2/ Remove carpet + add cage

3/ Fit up Nittos (a must!) "?!?

well apparently it is that simple for those with the money!

"so what would you to my car if i wanted it to run 8s?"

"ok, 1/ Add turbos and a couple of other bolt ons

2/ Remove carpet + add cage

3/ Fit up Nittos (a must!)

and 4/ a $200k check"

"i will drop off the car tomorrow!"(shake hands)

id like to know what some people define a STREET CAR. in my point of view a street car runs pump fuel full interior full exhaust street tyres, and is driven to the track, does any body else second that

My definition of a street car is a vehicle that would pass inspection by an independent engineer to be certified as ADR compliant.

While I don't expect it to meet the letter of the ADRs in every respect, it would have to be the kind of car an engineer is willing to put his name and reputation to as being "road legal" (i.e. if he was the certify it and the car was taken immediately the RTA to be inspected again, the engineer wouldn't lose his authority to be an engineering signatory).

That's nothing.

I slammed the screen down on the laptop plugged into my standalone fuel management system (great way to spend 10 grand), and my checkerplate floor fell out of the passenger seat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...