Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesterday my engine died, and had to get it towed home.

Has been running rougher and rougher last week. Until yesterday it was just stalling, and would idle really roughly. Soon as you put into D it would stall.

Pulled things apart and run a compression test. Cylinder 3 is way down on compression (80psi vs 130psi of the others - on my gauge, which does read a bit low), and spark plug covered in visible oil. So I suspect the worse :D

Basically engine will start, run for a bit, get gradually rougher and rougher, then die.

Is it definitely the end of the engine, and anything else I can do to check?

damn rb20 crap crap :rant:

*sigh*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/
Share on other sites

The dropped compression on one cylinder is the decider. It should still run (if a bit rough) but it won't be making a miraculous recovery.

I enjoyed pulling my old rb20 apart. It's nice to see what sort of damage you have done to the engine after flogging the crap out of it for 2 years. In my case very little, just rings and bearings really, if i hadn't been planning on an rb25 swap it could have been rebuilt and gone back in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1391060
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, I never have even had the chance to flog the crap out of it :( See the plan was to do that for another 6-12 months then put in the RB25 I have sitting here. Now I have no choice on the timing of it all.

It's possible its something else, but I have thoroughly cleaned AAC valve, swapped AFM, changed O2 sensor the other week (and it was ok on that), checked all hoses.. checked plugs, cleaned plugs.. coils have no visible cracks or signs of damage. Not sure what else it could be ?

I guess I could try and rebuild the rb20 once its out.. I'm going to have to buy another crapbox anyhow while I do the conversion :D maybe then rebuilt rb20 could go into that.. hmm.. some ideas!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1391126
Share on other sites

Hahahaha i broke mine yesterday.It starts fine but knocks abit in the bottom end and after giving it alittle rev it knocks big time.It sounds like a rex when it runs rough so whats with that?

The motor is ment to run on 6 cylinders... When you loose a cylinder the firing order is out.. .. The other 5 cylinder are probaly doing thier job.. and that one cylinder is just pumping raw fuel out...Causing it to give an off note eg... Like a rex..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393151
Share on other sites

I am not sure now, I have to investigate mine some more.. it won't start now at all.. whereas before it was running for little bits, albeit rough as guts.

Its getting petrol in there (can smell it on the plugs) - think it was actually petrol on the carbon (looking like oil).. but it doesn't seem to be getting spark..

would a dodgy valve cause bad compression?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393167
Share on other sites

Hi Gordo,

Im very sorry to hear about your problem man :)

I really hope you get everything sorted ok...

In my opinion, you have a rb25 and you want to do the conversion so just drop it in.

If you don't have the relevant funds get a shit box to get you round coz if you were rebuilding the 20 you would need it anyway.

Thats just my opinion on the situation.

Take Care

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393214
Share on other sites

ok, continuing investigation.. CSI eat your heart out..

It may *possibly* be a wiring problem around the ignitor module.. removed it, put it back in, obviously jiggling wires whilst doing so. Now starting and running the same as it always did each and every time.

Also curious, so ran another compression check on cylinder #3.. its back to 120psi ! vs 130psi of the others, close enough to 10%. I did the first lot of checks twice to confirm and it was 80psi both times.

Now would a stuck valve mentioned by chris32 be the problem here? Giving a low reading when stuck open, and back to normal while working fine??

The world confused mother ****er comes to mind! :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393514
Share on other sites

Could be a dodgy or blocked lifter perhaps?

Maybe worth doing a engine oil flush with one of those concentrate type addatives that break down the old oil, and then dump the old oil and put some fresh oil in it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393549
Share on other sites

Hahahaha i broke mine yesterday.It starts fine but knocks abit in the bottom end and after giving it alittle rev it knocks big time.It sounds like a rex when it runs rough so whats with that?

R31 Power, i put 10k on its a spun big end bearing. that requires a new bottom end, crank and affected rod/s go buy another engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395033
Share on other sites

boostn32...change yiur avatar, i keep seeing yous and thinking its an old thread as thats my old avatar:) TP for my bunghole?

Bugger to hear about all the RB20 dramas the past week, hope it is just an electrical gremlin...and engine flush is cheap and easy, may not do anything, but then again?

I hope it is something electrical :wizard:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395141
Share on other sites

I've got a dodgy injector plug that tends to play up every so often.

The wiring loom injetor plug has split, water gets in and causes a bad connection.

Every now and again it gets hard to start and runs on 5cyls until its warm. ;)

Playing with the injector will instantly get it running on 6 again. ;)

Looking at the plug the contacts get corroded as all buggery. Clean it up and its all good again for another 6months. :)

It also tends to play up more often if I park the car on grass overnight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395183
Share on other sites

lol @ roy's sparky.. that is now what I need - I think I'm going to have to get in an autoelec to check all the electricals, as I am starting to think that is more what it is. I have done what I can - at least they'd be able to tell me what *is* working fine. ECU reads error "all fine" (useless thing!)

yeah.. this is more *when* it gets warm it goes dodo.

I think there is still plenty of life in this engine! After all its only a 100,000km engine (well on the odometer anyhow) - would be strange if it was packing up so early. There is no sign of a stack of oil in the intake or anything like that, no knocking noises, no oil in water, water in oil - the obvious things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395210
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...