Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What would in your opinon be the cheapest way to build a 10 second car.

The only rules are:

- Cost of the 10 second car must substitute in the cost of the car and the mods.

- No major weight reduction mods

- No blown carburettored V8's

In my opinon I believe the GSR Lancer would be the best candidate for building a 10 second car as its a relatively cheap car to buy, 4wd and has an abundance of aftermarket kits to build on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76558-cheapest-10-second-car/
Share on other sites

Old mazda 808 with a 13BT and old school T04, microtech, shortened 9inch, supra 5 speed and custom tailshaft with 8 inch slicks jammed under the rear end with some suspension work.

Total cost would be about 17k including car

Old mazda 808 with a 13BT and old school T04, microtech, shortened 9inch, supra 5 speed and custom tailshaft with 8 inch slicks jammed under the rear end with some suspension work.

Total cost would be about 17k including car

I am up with that for sure the cheapest way to build 10sec package is just the way hes said, but put a T66 (with large exaust wheel) on instead of the T04

Mate is almost finished with his 13bt in 1300 wagon with the large port work and the T66 i cant wait till its run in and i get to have a go

I know you mentioned no blown v8s but the cheapest is definately a vb or vc commodore.

-THe car= $1000 in pretty good cond

- Motor= $4000 308 with a stroker at least 355

- Tranny=$3000 tricked up manualised auto

-Diff= $2500 9 inch with 4 link setup

- Wheels/tyres and miscalaneous= $2500

All up $13000

ANd if you want to go injected, add another 2g.

But rotary was my second choice its just the base cars are worth alot these days!!!

yea i knew a guy with a rx2 with a 13b in it it wooda been near 10s and it was cheap for him motor was 6k worked off its tits then shell was just about nothing nothing

then he got a r100 and put the motor in that

other guy i know has a V8 in a Ford Capri its a ex drag car does 11's had huges wheels on the back and motor coming out the hood

if he superchargers it it will do 10's

Go the rotor in a lite car :cheers:

The other cheapish one would be a 1GGTE with a big turbo, good tune, in something small. The stock bottom ends are unreal. To get a bit more go out of them use a supercharged bottom end, as they are 0.5 compression ratio higher, and can still cop massive amounts of abuse. Full motor would be about $700-1000ish now?

But yeah, carby V8, cheap as, or Rotor. 10sec car isnt that hard, but a reliable street driveable one is a bit more of a trick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...