Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

just installed a jjr kit yesterday. not as straight forward as i had thought. it leaked from some fittings at first, so re-did the whole thing (once there

was oil in there, so there is oil all over the place now) and put teflon tape on all the fittings. and found it impossible to get plate the is on

the engine off again (although we didnt have a spanner large enough).

i put the core in between the intercooler and the a/c.

th_DSC_0004.jpg

th_DSC_0011.jpg

th_DSC_0006.jpg

th_DSC_0003.jpg

Your installation looks neat!

I found it very difficult to tighten things as well. I managed to get hold of a wide shifter that wasn't long. This allowed to me get into tight places.

Next time I would put the remote oil filter the other way up - when you change the oil filter you dump a bucket full of oil into the engine bay and garage floor.

Any photos of the installed cooler?

Cheers

Rob

Does anyone know how the grex/greddy/trust sandwich plate attaches to the engine oil filter thread? Does it just screw on?

Reason I ask is that I bought an oil cooler and filter relocation kit from a person wrecking a GTR and couldn't get the sandwich plate off. I was hoping I won't have to wait til the engine gets removed to get the plate off.

i too just bought a JJR oil cooler. i think it was the 25 row silver one and mounted it in the passenger side in front of the wheel. i knew already the connectors needed tape so i just used it straight away. 3 things i found out was on the RB26 engines the sandwich plate and oil lines are so hard to put on as there is no room in there. 2nd is you need to buy new hoses to suit where your oil cooler will go. i needed to buy a .5m and 2m and used JJR's 1.5m hose. 3rd i installed my oil cooler too far forward and now i cant install my blinker. i will have to move it back 2" so it looks stock.

Your installation looks neat!

I found it very difficult to tighten things as well. I managed to get hold of a wide shifter that wasn't long. This allowed to me get into tight places.

Next time I would put the remote oil filter the other way up - when you change the oil filter you dump a bucket full of oil into the engine bay and garage floor.

Any photos of the installed cooler?

Cheers

Rob

i was going to do this, but cfb making a bracket for it to go on. i took the oil filter off the other day to move some things around. wrapped it in a rag,

seemed to work well, all the oil went into the rag.

the only problem i saw with it upside down is the damn braided lines.

  • 1 month later...

about oil temps, with a cooler in good air flow on a cold (10c) day/night with some reasonable paced driving, (say changes at 4000 or 5000) what's the oil temp likely to be? how likely would it be to get too low in australia? or is that more for sub zero outside temps?

about oil temps, with a cooler in good air flow on a cold (10c) day/night with some reasonable paced driving, (say changes at 4000 or 5000) what's the oil temp likely to be? how likely would it be to get too low in australia? or is that more for sub zero outside temps?

Generally you want your oil temperature around 90 deg C which is what happens driving around town.

The RBs have a water to oil heat exchanger which tends to keep oil temperature around the water temperature - heats up the oil quicker and cools the oil as well.

From what I have read you want to keep your oil temperature below about 120C. My experience is you will have difficulity getting your oil temperature above this driving around town (and keep your licence), its on the track where you are flat out most of the time.

I found with my oil cooler setup I had trouble getting the oil temperature above 80C - particularly in winter, so I fitted a aluminium sheet over the cooler fins for the cooler months.

Some better setups have a thermostat that doesn't engage the oil cooler until the oil is over about 80 or 90C. This would be the best setup.

Cheers

Rob

  • 5 weeks later...
ok, so have ajust jap kit and i havent installed it yet. since with this device installed, there is extra oil cooling capacity...should we be disconnectiong the old oil cooler from the water cooling system???

take this quote from the trust greddy oil cooler product:

Factory oil coolers are normally small water-cooled devices sandwiched between the oil filter and engine block. These tax the cooling system even under normal driving conditions. GReddy / GREX oil coolers are an excellent addition, and are especially effective in harsh driving environments. By using a similar inner-fin core design as our famous intercoolers, we are able to increase oil capacity, decrease oil temperatures, and extend engine and oil life.

so based on the fact that we have extra cooling capacity now from the oil cooler, should we be bypassing the water factory oil cooler so as to enhance/help the water cooling of the engine???

if you really want to get rid of the mess of the standard oil cooler, just use an rb20 oil filter mount, you just have to re mount the std oil press sender, or if you use the std, aftermark oil temp and press you can get t pieces from enzed and the like to have two senders of one hole

Just a quick question for anyone that has installed an oil cooler between their FMIC and air con/radiator.

Is the only place for the lines to go through to the engine bay here:

msg-a243372-oil.cooler.1.png

Or is there another location behind the headlight, or somewhere like that closer to where the core is mounted?

(Pics courtesy of ssxRicho.. thanks dude)

Just looking for ideas, as there seems to be not one picture online of the front mounted Trust/Greddy/HKS systems for either R33 GTR or GTSt during install. And i dont want to be short of line when i attempt to route my lines :) I have around 8 feet, im guessing that should be plenty.

EDIT: What do you know. After hours of searching for the oil cooler install, i find this randomly looking at old DIY's.

DSC00264Medium.jpg

So i guess that answers the question, unless your keen to jam two 10AN lines through the small wiring hole.. ha.

Edited by gotRICE?
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 9 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

ok this is the best thread i have found, i'm stuck knowing where to put the braided lines from the sandwich plate on the block, you know how there are 2 fittings on it, one must be a return & the other bumps oil to the oil filter/relocater? then there are 2 fittings on the oil filter/relocater. 1 feeds oil from the sandwich plate & the other feeds oil to the oil cooler...

hope someone understands & can help cause i dont wanna get it wrong & f**k my engine due to lack of oil lol

cheers

edit: ok here's a diagram i found where is says "spin on adapter is that the correct way the hoses have to go on the rb30?

or does the oil feed from the oil filter thread on the block?

oilcoolercircuit.gif

Edited by HR31-PASSAGE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...