Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday all

im new to the forum so i hope this is all where its suposed to be and my spelling ant that bad...

how do the japanese get that cool drift look from the tyres?is it just a case of fitting smaller tyres on wider rims or what? does this increase handeling? and finaly is it very hard to get the tyre to stay on and not slip of the beed all the time, cheers

ps i hope u all no what im even talkin about,i would up pics up but i think u should all no.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79279-jap-spec-drift-tyre-fitting/
Share on other sites

they basically fit a smaller tread to wider rim.. hence stretching out sidewalls.

when the sidewalls are stretched, they basically have no givein them, hence being easier to spin the wheels...

its basically the opposite to big drag radials, there huge sidewalls flex alot to aid grip.

you can do it, its a hassle to put the tyres on the rims, but is possible. i wouldnt suggest going to huge extremes as yes, it does make it more likely to seperate from the bead.

michael

As NFAA32 said, its "handling improvements" come from reducing sidewall flex to provide better steering feel. In a drift situation, response is more important than outright grip.

Of course, if its more likely to slip the bead then all the improved cornering in the world isn't going to do you much good if using it is likely to rip the tyre off the rim.

And unless you're running drift-levels of negative camber and suspension stiffness, you're also more likely to pull the edge of the tyre and the sidewall under the car under cornering loads, and then you're more likely to be driving on the straights on the edge of oyur tyre.

Since the sidewalls aren't really designed to be driven on, you'll increase your likelihood of a blowout.

As for the edges, one of my friends had a set of D01J's on his street car. Since he wasn't running enough neg camber (and he runs a fair amount already, for a street car) it was heavily leaning on the corners during a track session, and delaminated the edge. Luckily it didn't throw him off the track but it rendered the tyres undrivable.

For performance and safety, you'd be much better off just buying decent sports tyres with a reinforced sidewall.

But then you're not after go, you're just after show. Your tyre shop should be able to do it (with a little more effort than a properly fitting tyre, but then you're not paying them to take it easy), but if they have any professionalism they'll advise you against doing it on your street car first.

i have stretched tyres on mine, 235s on a 9 inch rim... the widest rim you can put a 235 on is 9.5" before it becomes a drama.

i used to have 255s on the back, since going the 235s i noticed alot better handling and response from the rear end. the wheels are easy to spin and are alot more controllable while spinning and while sideways.

i dont have time to check tyre wear levels as i run high pressures in my tyres and a bit of neg camber. also rear tyres are lucky to last over a month.

cheers

Linton

Mine are 235s on 9" wide rims, i wouldnt call that extreme. The guy at the tyre place didnt say anything about it, they are like that to provide a bit more clearance under my guards.

ive seen 225s on a 8.5 inch rim before.. and it was not pretty...

currently running 225s on a 17 x 9inch rim, they are fine. could probably go 215s, any lower than 215s and it's gonna be a real bitch to fit.

gonna try 225s on a 10inch wide rim, i'll let u know how it goes...

you need to go a smaller width, and higher sidewall to compensate for the extra stretch, if you get it right your overall wheel diameter will be the same. Don't go stupid on the size though, last thing you want is the seal popping off mid corner.

yeah, my fronts are a bit stretched too, 215's on an 8inch rim.

they're getting munted big-time - like camber wear, and chunks coming off the side..., but i can't tell if that's from the stretched look, or the amount of drift i've been doing recently, coz the braking drift is really going through front tyres.

i got 215s on 9inch rears and they look just nice... and went through the pits ok so that says something? and have 215s on 8inch at front...

one thing i noticed though is that the walls are stretched thus the rim gaurd bit of the tyre pretty much doesnt exist and i keep scraping the outer dish on curbs and islands!!! now my nice dish is full of scrapes.... thats the only concern i have with stretched tyres...

bit off topic but practicality side of things....

there is merit in going with the smallest tyre you can put on the rim as it stiffens sidewalls BUT don't go nutz as you'll pay...tyre, rim, rear 1/4 panel etc. as for picking a tyre with stiff sidewalls i reckon it's anyone's guess to some extent unless you've tried them. ask a dealer and they'll fill you full of bs most of the time as they don't really know - there is no published data on sidewall stiffness. i had michelin pilots on a 32 GTR and they tramlined...a lot...like a big...er...tram but michelins were known for soft sidewalls. new falkens fixed that but no where near the grip. this isn't a tyre thread so not going there.

do a google search for tyre/rim size compatability charts and you'll find many manufacturers publish them, i keep the toyo one nearby but remember sizes ain't always sizes - and not created in equal widths for a given branding ie 235 - do a search on the suspension/handling/tyres forum for SK's notes and you'll see what i mean. point is a chart will give you an indication of what manufacturers recommend and then you know there's some room to move.

just my 2c

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...