Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally after playing around with RB26 cams which i couldnt get to work, i installed the Poncams with good results.

Power went from 207 to 221kw both @ 18psi.

There is sooo much more top end its unreal, it just hits redline so much quicker, this is obvious in the graphs, where before power would drop quite dramatically it now holds a lot longer.

4500 165 172

4700 176 181

4900 183 189

5100 190 197

5300 196 207

5500 204 216

5700 207 220

5900 204 219

6100 201 217

6300 200 214

6500 192 210

Average Power = 192.5 203.8

If the first run continued to 7000rpm you would see an even bigger difference.

At first i was a bit dissapointed with the max power, but just lookin at how much more top end its gained im stoked.

Its off to the creek in a month or so ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81057-poncams-installed-221-rwkw-in-rb20/
Share on other sites

What he said^^^^^^.

Interested on cam specs and what turbo is being used.

Nice result. Its not just top end thats improved it has gained power everywhere.

At 4,000rpm both setups are on par at approx. 100rwkw. But from then on the new setup is ahead on average 15rwkw all the way to 6500rpm and then gets better from there. I was always under the impression cams would sacrifice a little down low for the gains up top but this setup has proven me wrong. Do you have the boost graph from before? Because it even looks like boost is coming in earlier?

i would of thought that turbo would of made peak power even later than a stock turbs!

Is your power FC tuned for responce rather than peak power? Its very well known that the tune can change everythin!

18psi wit 170,000kms, motor must of been very well looked after mate :P

You still haven't told us what cams you are running. :P

Now you have done cams you will find a nice little manifold will help top end not to mention mid range. Possibly a HKS Cast item? They are cheap and flow well.

Excellent result.. Looks a lot like Roy's power curve.

Roy what cams were you running? :P

170,000km's.. Doesn't suprise me, The little old RB's are tough.

Interestering how peak rpm power stayed the same... :)

Did the cams come with the specs, intake opening closing etc?

Its a little sheet that should state something along the lines of IVO, IVC, EVO, EVC.

thats what i thought as well....

no specs sheet except for table on what other cams are available, like 260, 8.80mm lift ... however if you want to use those you have to go to solid lifters...

They set me back about $900.

And they are a straight bolt on, no shiming required...

Yeah, great result.

For the money spent, I reckon doing a cam swap for a set of Poncams is better value than doing the whole adjustable cam gear thing

I reckon this is what my car needs, just to get some more useable RPM out of it. Im sick of changing gears at 6500rpm! 8000rpm is what I want!

Cam also need better airflow to work properly.

Mine made no differnce in peak power, but average power was down. (Stock Turbo) but when I would in a touch more boost, look the fark out, because it took of like a rocket.

Just gotta get my higflow now!

Yeah, great result.

For the money spent, I reckon doing a cam swap for a set of Poncams is better value than doing the whole adjustable cam gear thing

I reckon this is what my car needs, just to get some more useable RPM out of it. Im sick of changing gears at 6500rpm! 8000rpm is what I want!

Standard cams should let you change round 7800 still?

Stock turbos dont help I guess.

Yeah, great result.

For the money spent, I reckon doing a cam swap for a set of Poncams is better value than doing the whole adjustable cam gear thing

I reckon this is what my car needs, just to get some more useable RPM out of it. Im sick of changing gears at 6500rpm! 8000rpm is what I want!

Forget about getting cam gears, even tho ive got these they made very little difference. They were tuned at 1deg advance on inlet 1deg retard on exhaust.

Thats when you know cams are well made, when they need very little to no adjustment to get the best results.

Save your money and get urself cams not cam gears !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...