Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm, are you saying that I could purchase a set of Slotted Rotors built for the 34GTT as long as I buy a set of Calipers as well?

I'm kind of looking to buy a full set of brand new slotted rotors that are completely interchangeable and require minimum to no modification to fit.

If anyone has part numbers or recommended Rotors, I'd appreciate it.

yep that's what u can do.

the dumb ass guys here in Perth not hear what i said, i have a s1 not a s2 so the rear is 265mm some people piss me off.

now i have new 295mm rotors i cant use.will have to take them back glad i not take them out of the plastic but check it all first.

dose any1 know of a rotor with all the same specs as a skyline but only 265?

Edited by whitenight27

Ok can u guys help me with info for fitting r33 rear brakes to my s1. Need to know of all the bits needed?

If they are the same as GTT brakes: calipers, pads. rotors. Need to trim the backing plate. You may need to pull the olives out of the calipers to convert to banjo fittings for the brake lines or vice versa.
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

right guys cant seem to found the answers im looking for.. Ive got a rs4s stagea ive got r34 brakes to suit.. question is about braided lines will r34 braidlines work? notice each cailper have three seprate pieces.. some i see online are only two piece?

A little while ago i replaced my brake pads all round due to the fact that the rear left was metal on metal (the rest still had a fair bit on them but changed them anyway so they were all the same), while it was off i noticed one of the bar guide things in the caliper was a tiny bit bent. Hoping it wouldn't be too much of an issue i just put them back on. Turns out now it is an issue as the same corner has worn down again. rather than just find a new/secondhand caliper, i thought it might be a good reason to do a brake upgrade all round. Can anyone confirm the below for me? also should i be looking for new stuff or just go secondhand? and also will this be a reasonable upgrade or would i be better off going something bigger/different?

I have converted my S2 to all R34 gtt spec brakes (F+R) in my garage.

The rear dust covers needed a little trim around the caliper area, i just used tin snips, a file and pliers to bend the daggy bits.

From memory the front dust covers were fine.

The diameter of the rotors was close enough to just bend them a little where they touched.

I had the rear R34 soft lines but they dont match the Stagea at the chassis side where they join the hardlines.

I was able to pop the ferrule out of the caliper with a self tapper on both sets of calipers and use the original banjo fittings.

The rear banjo bolts needed abut 3mm taken off its length as they still bottomed out, took my time with a hack saw and a file and no dramas.

Also there is a fitting block bolted to the back of the rear R34 caliper that connected the soft line to a short hard line into the ferrule fitting.

I couldnt find a way of making the blocks work so they're in a box under my work bench with all the old Stag brake parts.

I have left the brake lines as per Stagea spec,

I used all the original Stag caliper bolts but they were the same as R34 ones.

The pad was dragging due to the bent pin, mine was the same when I bought it. I have no idea how one pin can bend but it seems to be common. You could simply straighten the in a vice using something soft so you don't mark it, then grease it up and re-fit them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...