Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so your saying put a piece of timber either side in the vice so its not touching the metal vice, or by soft do you mean wrap it in a cloth then wack that straight in the vice and tighten up?? still have to buy another set of rear pads though....i guess that's not as much as an upgrade.

  • 4 weeks later...

Just wanted to give a big thanks for the information, I went to a few Sprint auto parts who just assumed mine was a 4wd....luckily I didn't buy anything, Repco weren't much help either but autobahn had some for me, does it really matter what brand we're using though?

  • 3 weeks later...

Very neat on clearance there, but I' think you'll be impressed with the improvement!

Yip very happy with it. Calipers getting painted this weekend and rotors are getting skimmed this coming week to remove rust. Decided to go

for new set of wheels because Im not comfortable with wheels spacers. Suspension height will remain standard, as our roads still badly damaged from the quake 2 yrs ago! Cant wait next weekend to bolt it all together now :yes:

Yip very happy with it. Calipers getting painted this weekend and rotors are getting skimmed this coming week to remove rust. Decided to go

for new set of wheels because Im not comfortable with wheels spacers. Suspension height will remain standard, as our roads still badly damaged from the quake 2 yrs ago! Cant wait next weekend to bolt it all together now :yes:

Have you thought about getting them to slot the rotors while they're there? Normally costs $50ish per rotor, if your rotors have plenty of meat it is a worthwhile exercise.

I am fitting 32gtr to my s1 just got to get motivated lol plus still waiting on some cash to come in to grab 33gtst rears plus giving my rims a face lift

LOL, I'm in exactly the same boat. I have the R32 GTR front calipers, need to get a matching set of rears. If I can afford it when I do it, I think I'll also stump up for a new set of slotted rotors all around too.

I've been slack and haven't gotten around to upgrading my brakes (F&R R34 GT-T Rotors and Calipers). I cracked open the box since it's been sitting in the shed for about 2 months and looked at the lines I got with them...

This is one of the braded lines I got with it (good thing I saw that they are ADR Approved)

post-34764-0-09427700-1360827216_thumb.jpg

post-34764-0-50527600-1360827214_thumb.jpg

post-34764-0-48034600-1360827217_thumb.jpg

the other braided line is exactly the same

The rears are the stock R34 lines

As you can tell from the last photo it appears that it has been cut from the hard line I think (all the lines have been cut at that point)

Do you think these will work on a S2 Stagea and will the stock R34 rear lines work or will the standard Stagea's one work?? Is there anything extra I need to be aware of??

post-94823-0-07649600-1361007761_thumb.jpgWoohoo got my r34 calipers and rotors fitted on finally. As per some members described, the banjo fittings of the stagea wont screw in properly inside the r34 calipers and suggestions is to remove the olives inside the caliper. We didnt ended up doing this. We drilled the banjo fitting ENDS to TAPER and screw it in nicely(see pic). Also ended up not cutting the dust shields or grinding the steering knuckles, instead fitted a 3mm SLIP-ON spacers between the hub and the rotors which gave us a nice gap in between, washers with the same thickness was used to spaced the calipers and between the mounting lugs. Took it for a test drive and overall braking performance is now way better than the standard single pot calipers.post-94823-0-03811900-1361008584_thumb.jpgpost-94823-0-51631000-1361008614_thumb.jpgpost-94823-0-41298100-1361008658_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

ok, so i should buy the nismo ones to suit my car then? i have the compete R34GTT brake line set-up from caliper to chassis connection, will i just use the last bit of the GTT line that goes to the caliper and screw that into the nismo braided lines to suit stagea?

Nick

While I would normally recommend Nismo gear, remember their brake lines are not ADR approved.

Have you tried Maltech? Expensive but great quality.

There will be something cheap around that fits, what has everyone else done?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...