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the main things you can do for a brake system are:

1 New pads - the complier is required to do this by law. perhaps he forgot temporarily?

2 New discs, or machine discs flat - Discs are 150-300ea depending on model, and machining generally costs around $40 per side.

3 New Fluid/Bleeding - Costs about 100-200, replaces the fluid in your brake lines and removes any water and air bubbles that may have collected.

Assuming 1 is done, if the brakes thrum/pulse you probably need 2, and if the pedal is long and it doesn't stop well try 3. There are other more expensive things that could be wrong (of course) but they are the main place to start.

Complier has to give you a road worthy car, although any additional work on top of pads, tyres and fluids will probably cost you.

the main things you can do for a brake system are:

1 New pads - the complier is required to do this by law. perhaps he forgot temporarily?

2 New discs, or machine discs flat - Discs are 150-300ea depending on model, and machining generally costs around $40 per side.

3 New Fluid/Bleeding - Costs about 100-200, replaces the fluid in your brake lines and removes any water and air bubbles that may have collected.

Assuming 1 is done, if the brakes thrum/pulse you probably need 2, and if the pedal is long and it doesn't stop well try 3. There are other more expensive things that could be wrong (of course) but they are the main place to start.

Complier has to give you a road worthy car, although any additional work on top of pads, tyres and fluids will probably cost you.

According to the modification list ,brake fluid was replaced but not pads. Is there a document I can download to see what must be changed on my stagea m35 series 1 ?when I go back to the compliance shop I need to have something to support my views.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hello Stagea owners,

I have been meaning to ask this for a little while now. I have a series 1 (1997) RS4 and the handbrake(footbrake?) light on the dash is on almost all the time. I didn't get a owners manual when I bought my car so I was wondering if this was a warning light to let me know I need to replace the pads, or is it more likely to just be a wiring fault?

cheers

Brett.

Hello Stagea owners,

I have been meaning to ask this for a little while now. I have a series 1 (1997) RS4 and the handbrake(footbrake?) light on the dash is on almost all the time. I didn't get a owners manual when I bought my car so I was wondering if this was a warning light to let me know I need to replace the pads, or is it more likely to just be a wiring fault?

cheers

Brett.

check your brake fluid level

Anyone know if there is a difference between the 4pot callipers on the front of R34GTX in comparison R34GTT?

I wish to put R34 4pots up front as i'm aware they have the 14mm bolt/mounting holes which makes life easier to fit on a S2 Stag.

I've got a pair of 4pot callipers from a 97 Stag 'apparently' (bought via auctions) with the 12mm bolt/mounting holes and they look

just the same as any other 4pot skyline callipers.

Advice?

s1-stageas rb25 never had 4-pot brakes.................. 2-pot single sided fronts, 1-pot rear calipers

4-pots would have come out with the 260RS. Probably R33 gtst calipers. Do they have sumitomo written on them (r32 gtst) ?

righto, so R34GTT 4 spot fronts fit S2 stagea fronts without modification. now my question is, R34 GTR brembos are a direct upgrade for a R34 GTT, now if i assume correctly then given the right wheel combo then R34 GTR brembos are a direct bolt up to our S2 Stageas? can anyone tell me if the wheel clearances are the same or the GTR brembos are slightly bigger? (my wheels have "brembo clearance" but still unsure on fitment)

ditto on my s2, 2pot front/1pot rear.

yup, sumitomo. i should have mentioned that. so r32 i have?

s1-stageas rb25 never had 4-pot brakes.................. 2-pot single sided fronts, 1-pot rear calipers

4-pots would have come out with the 260RS. Probably R33 gtst calipers. Do they have sumitomo written on them (r32 gtst) ?

I had same thought. my assumption is the r34 brembo's would bolt straight on. bigger disc diameter. brake line fittings maybe different?

They're on my wishlist, just out of the budget at the moment.

righto, so R34GTT 4 spot fronts fit S2 stagea fronts without modification. now my question is, R34 GTR brembos are a direct upgrade for a R34 GTT, now if i assume correctly then given the right wheel combo then R34 GTR brembos are a direct bolt up to our S2 Stageas? can anyone tell me if the wheel clearances are the same or the GTR brembos are slightly bigger? (my wheels have "brembo clearance" but still unsure on fitment)

there is lots POSTED ON BRAKES,you will have to RETAP BOLT HOLES,

the S2 brakes have 30mm more PAD the 4 pots,

with z350 Slotted rotors & brake stopper,you will find there as good as 4 pots

i shall look at Group buy on 1 piece briaded lines,very soon,

there is lots POSTED ON BRAKES,you will have to RETAP BOLT HOLES,

the S2 brakes have 30mm more PAD the 4 pots,

with z350 Slotted rotors & brake stopper,you will find there as good as 4 pots

i shall look at Group buy on 1 piece briaded lines,very soon,

yeah i know, i've gone back and forth through this thread many times to check whats been done etc... seen some repeated questions :)

been umming and arring what to do for a bit.

was just curious when i saw a pic of r34 gtx & r34 gtt front brake calipers, they looked the same. but gtx non turbo yeah?

maybee someone put gtt calipers on their gtx? i'd expect gtx maybe 2bot like stag if stock?

when i measured the holes (12mm) the other day on the 4pots i have, i thought oh no i'd have to retap or do the spacer thing. which i dont really wanna do. so may have some 4pots up for sale shortly :) as i hunt for some others.

prefer to get some r34 series 14mm calipers nissan/brembo, bolt straight on then get the lines sorted. (if i go that path)

i vaguely remember a engineer / replicar car builder advising there is a rule/law that the brakes, seatbelts, emissions etc...

when modifying have to be from the same year of manufacture or newer. hence im not gonna use these 4pots i have.

keeping 'mods' in the eyes of insurance/law within their stipulation so i dont stooge myself :).

want it to be a sleeper.

re: 'the S2 brakes have 30mm more PAD the 4 pots'.

Always noticed the difference in surface area and always been thinking, is 4pots worth it.

Cause the standard 2pots have more surface area, therefore require less force to brake.

As opposed to the 4pots which have less pad area, but being 4pots use more braking/clamping force.

(i remember some old science class stuff about surface area and pressure)

So it's probably 50/50 on the benefits/time/effort over all in changing to 4pots i have also been thinking, given pad materials

good discss/lines etc.. The 4pots probably more effective on the lighter skyline.

Have also been thinking, stay with standard calipers, get dixcel slotted rotors (being direct fitment).

Get some decent pads, braided lines, brake stopper and be done with.

Next thought, why have people been upgrading (besides track cars/towing loaded 7*5 or tandem trailer etc..),

the standard brake setup pretty good. But even saying that, I've towed a tandem behind a stock r31 with a 1982 vc commodore 1300kg,

then another time with a 92 hyundi sonata 1200kg on the trailer ... no issue at all. even checked the chassis later being anal and all with cars :)

The brakes were fine, paid attention to stopping distances etc... all good.

I've been on some very very twisty country rd's quite often, which were 100km limit with 40kmh warning signs/bends

which have come up on me a bit quick at times, and standard setup never let me down, that in summer also with a few

hours driving already passed. Not blowing trumpet, but also i use gears effectively and set car up for corner as been taught in

a couple defensive courses which makes a big difference + teins/r34 rims/good tyres also add to overall handeling/braking.

(some of those defensive driving courses i advise to do if u havent, if not for the fun factor especially if in your own car, pick up good tips)

tooo many thoughts on the matter/options with brakes amongst other mods... ($$ tats me outa here)

Edited by Stagea_Neo

when your chasing e36's down twisty roads you will see yourself wanting the bigger brakes

34 gtt brakes give you an extra 20mm of rotor diameter so the 4 piston calliper also has more leverage on the brake rotor as well as clamping power

they are also thicker so you have better heat absorption and dispersion too

RDA slotted 350Z rotors, greenstuff pads, master cylinder stopper.

Does pretty well (obviously it doesn't stop like my 32) but the main reason for upgrading to slotted rotors and better pads is so you can stand on the pedal more often without fade. Stock brake setup does alright, I could make it kick ABS in but it was really only good for one hard stop and then they were rooted until everything cooled down.

Will be trial fitting chuckies 1 piece braided lines on the weekend and we are working on a solution to use the larger Stagea calipers with a bigger diameter rotor (such as 324mm 33gtr).

i put slotted rotors, EBC greenstuff (6000?) pads on my xtrail that had more go than standard and go driven harder than a 4cyl should. dont get me wrong they were 100% better than standard and it pulled up heaps better but my rotors had a blue tinge and surface cracks like crazy. i wish i had a bigger rotor option but only thing i found was a 2k 6or8spot front upgrade from k sport.

if were talking about more surface area then why not "upgrade" to drum brakes? its not only about friction material surface area but braking efficiency etc. i rekon fitting the brake stopper is a good idea but pad and lines may be a great upgrade for some but insufficient for other depending on how the car is driven or what the car is used for.

at the end of the day its driver preference, what might be the ideal setup for some might be "this drives like shit" to another. fair call?

@chuckie - why would brake calipers/hubs need to be tapped out when for s2 C34 the R34GTT calipers (NOT R33 GTR) are a direct un-modified fit? (apart from rear backing plate and possibly using the skyline brake lines). and if the R34 GTR brembos are a direct bolt on upgrade for R34 GTT then why not a direct fit for S2 C34?

if someone then went for R34 GTT calipers all around and then went for some slotted rotors and EBC pads to suit their application, would they not be better than the standard brakes with the same pad/rotor combo? (genuine questions)

Hi Taylor,

ok Drums only good for ONE STOP then HEAT is Problem lol.

i guess you may have Miss read ,

R34 GTT are same as Stagea S2 14 mm bolts,

R32 & R33 are 12mm Bolts as you would have seen in MY MOD photos,

Brake LINES Skylines are not as long as Stagea Lines so why use OLD RUBBER LINES that don`t fit .

If you look at PAD size all Skylines are 130mm pads,

Stagea S2 are 157 mm,

with few simple mods you can make Stock setup as good as any 4pot caliper mod R32 & R33 calipers,(caliper only mod)

R34GTT have lager Rotor but not PAD.

If you think Rubber lines are Good then you should look at what happens when pressurized they go Ridged,

R34GTT upgrade ,well spending $1000 + on that setup,if you thing that is worth it maybe,

I so far have spent $450 on my current setup,

FRONT END New Z350 Slotted rotors, Black stuff pads,

N1 air ducts,brake stopper,

Rear Gtr 32 Calipers,Slotted Rotors,

Black stuff pads braided lines,

I have got a set of Braided lines to go in Front but these are like stock using hard line over Hub,

I am also sorting out Dogbones to RUN 324 mm rotors with Stock S2 Caliper,hope this might be soon

Cheer`s Chuckie

post-36964-0-15968300-1295859332_thumb.jpg

Well all i can say on this subject is ! 324mm rotors r33 calipers with the spacers from unique . I will not be going back to standard ! The only way i will be going from here is trying braided lines which i all ready have, and then brembos ! The setup i have now is nothing but better than standard . The r33 caliper may not use all the disc but braking is much better in my opinion. And unfortunately my wagon is not driven kindley at any time unless my wife is driving ! Will let all know brand and price of my braided lines soon .

If you look at PAD size all Skylines are 130mm pads, Stagea S2 are 157 mm

Pad size is irrelevant... Amontons' 2nd Law of Friction: The force of friction is independent of the apparent area of contact.

Larger pads can often be detrimental to performance as they're harder to modulate and increase the null zone. That's why the rear of most cars (which is the unloaded end and harder modulate) these days with fancy electronics are trending towards smaller pads, on larger rotors. Most cars now come with larger rear rotors than front rotors for this exact reason.

  • Like 2

Pad size is irrelevant... Amontons' 2nd Law of Friction: The force of friction is independent of the apparent area of contact.

Larger pads can often be detrimental to performance as they're harder to modulate and increase the null zone. That's why the rear of most cars (which is the unloaded end and harder modulate) these days with fancy electronics are trending towards smaller pads, on larger rotors. Most cars now come with larger rear rotors than front rotors for this exact reason.

IT is in a 1700KG WAGON & one built in 1998, with 298 mm Rotors ,just wonder off & play please .:domokun::stupid:

  • Nope 4

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