Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Well, a little while ago I discovered that there is an allowance for inlet cam gear adjustment from the factory.

For some reason, possibly emissions etc, Nissan has handily made the VVT assembly adjustable, but it is very hard to do, involving removing the pulley each time you want to adjust it.

That is until I made up a ring which, with slight modification to the standard pulley allows adjustment from the front of the engine in a matter of seconds; with the cam gear cover off of course.

Now, until now, nobody had tried them on a car with any sort of dyno charts to prove anything.

Until now.

On the weekend, an R33 which shall remain nameless, and a workshop who shall also remain nameless tried one of my little wonder rings, and made some fairly significant gains by advancing the inlet cam a little.

The peak power remained the same, but the power through the rev range was increased by a very reasonable amount. How’s 20rwkw sound?

In the lower range, off boost, power was also increased, and then when the car began to boost, power was up everywhere.

The power flattens out at the very top, but stays up and doesn’t nose over.

Car has following mods. Intercooler, highflow turbo and Wolf3D and other supporting stuff.

The procedure with the tune was as follows.

Adjustable exhaust cam gear was added, power run up. Exh gear adjusted to about 4 degrees. Pretty standard stuff on an R33.

The top made was the Black line.

Then the inlet cam gear was adjusted. Can’t say how much by at this stage.

But you can see, with each amount of adjustment, the power curve moved across, until the final one made the 20rwkw at about 4500rpm

Nothing was changed on the tune, no adjustments were made with timing or anything.

Just the pulley was adjusted.

The VVT was still active, and the changeover points, to my knowledge, are very close to stock, they were only adjusted to fine tune the turbo.

Obviously soon, I will be spinning my car up and trying it with a stock turbo but with Tomei Poncams, and seeing what we can see.

Also, I will be making the adjusters up to a commercial quality, with adjustment marks and zinc plating them for longevity, and a batch will be made up.

I would like somebody in Melbourne to try one of these with stock management and stock turbo etc just to get a grip on the power gain possible with everything stock. I will supply an adjuster free of charge, but I will need you to spin the car up on a dyno, which I can arrange in Croyden.

Any volunteers?

Here’s the dyno charts, see for your self and make your own decision.

post-6399-1123579868.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83487-inlet-cam-adjuster-dyno-result/
Share on other sites

Well, the final cost isn't down yet, as for the prototype was hand tapped and not zinc plated and hasn't have any markings on it.

The commercial ones will be Laser Cut, Laser Etched and CNC Machined, or just CNC Machined and then Zinc Plated.

Gotta work out the numbers.

Probably at this stage they will be Laser Cut, Laser etched and then CNC machined. Maybe I will have the markings CNC machined, and then the finished product will be plated.

To fit up, I would say about an hour or so.

You will need a 6mm drill bit, pedestal drill and a couple of hours I guess.

Gotta pull the Cam cover off, remove inlet cam gear and VVT stuff.

Drill out the existing M6 tapped holes.

Put adjuster plate on the back, screw in four bolts from the front of the Cam gear.

Adjust so adjustment is in centre, or where the pulley was to start with.

Lock everything up nice and tight. Real tight.

Reinstall inlet cam gear, and all VVT stuff.

Then, you are ready to adjust cam gear.

If you were serious, you would probably spin it up on the dyno and play with the gear until you are happy.

The best part is that to adjust the gear, you simply loosen the four bolts, adjust gear, and tighten back up.

Not like the exhaust cam gear where you have to remove and replace the damn CAS everytime.

BASS OUT

i might get my mate who owns my old r33 to give it a run if dr_drift is willing to give discounted dyno time :D - i think dr_drift is familiar with the vehicle too. i'm very interested in the results of this, good stuff bass!

More than happy to... Bass is a nice guy and would be good to see some independant results.

BASS - I may even be able to hook up a free new product mention in a magazine for you?

hey if you guys reckon it will work and its safe to do so then yeah i guess we can try it. im a bit scared but theres no benefit without risk taking. when do u want to do it. what do i need to organise? pm us bass when you are ready if yous want me to trial it

Interesting..very nice gains.

Do you have any ideas / thoughts on how much noise and emissions change as a result of this mod?

Noise???? Based on the 2 degrees advance we apply to GTR's and RB20's, it doesn't make the idle "lumpy", if that's the question. They just sit there and idle, same as they did before.

Emmissions, that's a bit tougher to answer as it depends on how the engine is tuned before the inlet camshaft timing is advanced. Just fitting an exhaust and turning up t he boost to 10 psi makes an RB25DET fail the ADR standards. I suspect if you advanced the inlet camshaft timing 2 degrees on a totally stock engine it would make bugger all difference to the emissions, with NOx being the only question.

:mellow: cheers :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...