Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys lookin at gettin a set of lenso d1rs for my r33 gtst

dont want to do anything over the top so no camber etc, will roll guards if needed and remove plastic liners

just want them sitting nice and flush with the guards...also car wont be lowerd too much as it has a kit so guards will sit about a cm or so above the wheel

heres some specs from the lenso website

WHEEL SIZE: 18x9.0®

ET: +15,+32,+40,+44

PCD: (5x100~114.3)

WHEEL SIZE: 18x9.5®

ET: +30,+40

PCD: (5x100~114.3)

WHEEL SIZE: 18x10

ET: +15,+22,+29,+36,+41

PCD: (5x100~114.3)

i hear the 18x9 +32 sit flush at front so ill probs be goin with that for the front,

question is from above what size will sit flush with the rear keeping in mind i dont want to run camber etc

how is that stupid? that is correct... 9mm more

imho go the 9.5+30 for the rears as it will look the same as your fronts.

9.5 + 30 is flush with no camber... i ran it for a couple of years

thx for the help guys

looks like id go

front 18x9+32

rear 18x9.5+30

with this flush fitmet ill need to get guards rolled n remove platic liners, i can remove platic liners myself, but who/where will do a good job of rolling the guards at a reasonable price?

how low do you wanna go?

fronts will only need the liner taken out if you slam it

180athid is te man fr al your guard rolling needs

cars got a kit on it, so wont be slamed for legal reasons, but wheel arch will sit above the tyre 10mm minimum may be more though.

180athid do i just pm him on sau...does he work at a shop or does he just have the equipment to do it afterhours?

hey man yeh leave your liners for now i doubt you'll need to roll them. Also id get ya wheels fitted up theres a good chance you wont need to roll em on those specs depending on ya height so save some cash for now can always do it later (roll the guards)

just so you know 10+36 will sit the same as 9.5 + 30 for outer position, if your wanting that fat look from behind id be heading down the 10" path. hope it helps :thumbsup:

Hey guys, really needing some help if someone out there is smart enough, I've tried researching and trying to learn but it all gets me confused =S

Anywho, long story short I'm currently building an R33 GTS-T RB25/30 with a custom wide body that i'm making myself lookin pretty sweet fiberglass btw, scissor doors etc, all metal fenders etc retained.

So the front body is 1 1/2" wider than original body, looking for wheel to sit out 1" past the original body.

and the rear body is 2" wider than original body, looking for wheel to sit 1 1/2" past the original body.

I have no problem at all rolling the front guards to fit, whatever it takes

I have no problem cutting and welding the rear arches to fit wide wheels past original arch (I'm a welder by trade)

Also after a decent dish! at the moment the car has 17" Sparco Racing rims can't remember width and offset.

wheels also have to get around the brakes without spacers / adapters

if you understand this and what I'm after, please help, I'm happy to take measurements, answer questions, etc.

Any help or advice greatly appreciated, just wanting to know if anyone has any idea what sizes and offsets i'd be looking for when searching for my wheels =)

easy man, you want to run camber ? guessing maybe not if its a widebody fibreglass scissor door autosalon style car by the sound of it?

if not just run a 9.5 +15 front or a 10+20 at a guess rear go an 10.5 or 11" with a 15 to 25 offset should do the trick.

but i have seen a widecustom 33 and the fibreglass returned inside too far to run wide wheels so hard to say without seeing what your working with.

actually just did a quick check for you.

if 9+30 is fairly flush on stock guards a 10" +10 will be 1.102 inch further out.

rears if you run an 11 +15 will sit 1.33 inch further out than a 9.5 + 30 which again is fairy flush on stock guards. None of this is taking into account stretch/camber/ride hieght but i doubt its overly relevant.

hey man yeh leave your liners for now i doubt you'll need to roll them. Also id get ya wheels fitted up theres a good chance you wont need to roll em on those specs depending on ya height so save some cash for now can always do it later (roll the guards)

just so you know 10+36 will sit the same as 9.5 + 30 for outer position, if your wanting that fat look from behind id be heading down the 10" path. hope it helps :thumbsup:

thanks mate, ill probs just stick to the 9.5+30 on the rear, long as its flush with the guards thats all i care about, cos i didnt really like how my rims on the na sat inside the guard

also with these specs front: 9+32 rear 9.5+30 what size tyres should i get?

Buckled a rim on the weekend...f*** you Wellington Road.

Long story short, I have D1R 18x9+32 all round...fronts looks reasonably flush but I always felt the rears could come out wider. Was going to put on spacers, but now that I need a new wheel, I'm seizing opportunity to buy two new wheels in a more suitable width/offset. Car is an R33 GTS-T with guards rolled but no flare. I'm not a fan of negative camber, but I want these new wheels as close to the rear guards without scraping.

What am I looking at offset boys? Wouldn't mind a 10" if I could pull it off (insert masturbation joke here) with the correct offset, but will this cut it fine with the suspension gear on the inside? Safest option seems to be 18x9.5+30 like Jason is getting, but will the extra 1/2 inch make much difference or will I be back where I was before?

Good idea on the offset calculator for inner clearance...

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Outer guard clearance is alot harder to measure though, particularly as it's an aesthetic thing too. Just wondering from experience what people have seen on the rears with rolled guards and no flare.

i have the 17x10 +15 on the rears, but i have slightly stretched rubber, and a bit of camber to make them fit. like you said, your not keen on camber so i think the only other offset they come (in NZ anyway) is +35, so i guess they are your only option in the 10" rim???

Got the XD9's on my car now, fronts are 18x9 +20 rears are 18x10 +18 (thanks to alr33x and joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo's recommendations!). Rear guards were pretty stuffed though from apparent (poorly done) old crash repairs on the right rear so the paint is all majorly cracked around the guard from being rolled pinch.gif next stop paint shop/panel beater it seems, probably need to flare the rears a bit anyway.... Anyway here they are in glorious shoddy camera phone form whistling.gif

post-74434-0-42750700-1297348259_thumb.jpg

post-74434-0-22390100-1297348314_thumb.jpg

post-74434-0-13722500-1297348370_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...